Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull tab and it snapped without much resistance.
Thank you, -- Ryland From: Eric Litvin<mailto:e...@lumaoptics.net> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM To: Joe Klein<mailto:joe.kl...@mischoice.com> Cc: nanog@nanog.org<mailto:nanog@nanog.org> Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal? Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests. Eric Luma optics Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <joe.kl...@mischoice.com> wrote: > > Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the > latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this > case. > > You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can > work the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a > credit card to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no > deadlatch. :) > > You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick > between the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and > plug. > > -joe > > From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=mischoice....@nanog.org> On Behalf Of > Ryland Kremeier > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31 > To: nanog@nanog.org > Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal? > > > External Mail > > Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab > has broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything. > > Thank you, > -- Ryland >
