Hi,

Hmm. It won't let me reset the PRAM. Back to the chalkboard. In fact, nothing 
happens. Every time I reset the PRAM, I have always been holding them down 
before powering on, and it has always worked. I've tried it ten times now.

#Fail#

I suppose that is out of the question right now doing that.

Regards,
Nic
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On May 7, 2010, at 9:23 AM, Nicolai Svendsen wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Yeah, I'll definitely give that one I shot. I thought I recognized it from 
> something you had to do on occasion with ThinkPad.
> 
> Again, thanks. I'll let you know.
> 
> Regards,
> Nic
> Mobile Me: nic2...@me.com
> Skype: Kvalme
> MSN Messenger: nico...@home3.gvdnet.dk
> AIM: cincinster
> yahoo Messenger: cin368
> Facebook Profile
> My Twitter
> 
> On May 7, 2010, at 2:33 AM, Esther wrote:
> 
>> Hi Nic,
>> 
>> I've never used resetting the PRAM to fix a USB port issue before on a Mac 
>> -- only used it for audio sound repairs.  However, the part about removing a 
>> battery and holding down the power button with the battery out (to discharge 
>> the capacitor) is something I've had to do before with an IBM ThinkPad 
>> laptop to reset electronic components.  So that may work in your case, too.
>> 
>> HTH
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Esther 
>> 
>> Nicolai Svendsen wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Esther,
>>> 
>>> Thank you. I'll try this. Resetting the PRAM has been tried before, but I'm 
>>> supposing holding down the power button when battery is removed is some 
>>> sort of cycle? I'll add it to resetting the PRAM again and let you know how 
>>> it works out.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> Nic
>>> Mobile Me: nic2...@me.com
>>> Skype: Kvalme
>>> MSN Messenger: nico...@home3.gvdnet.dk
>>> AIM: cincinster
>>> yahoo Messenger: cin368
>>> Facebook Profile
>>> My Twitter
>>> 
>>> On May 7, 2010, at 2:18 AM, Esther wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Hi Nic,
>>>> 
>>>> I'll cc this to the viphone list, since the last part of this post is 
>>>> about USB power usage and charging for the iPhone, iPod Touch and iPad. 
>>>> I'm not sure I qualify with respect to knowing a lot about hardware, USB 
>>>> devices, and electricity, but I'll try to answer your question, although 
>>>> I've never had OS X shut a device down with a message that it was drawing 
>>>> too much power.  However, I did just make a recent trip where I had to 
>>>> troubleshoot one of the USB ports of a MacBook.  Devices that were plugged 
>>>> into that port didn't work properly: printer cables wouldn't relay signals 
>>>> to  the attached peripheral, iPods would not be recognized by iTunes, and 
>>>> a plugged in mouse was evidently powered (lit up), but not enough to 
>>>> register clicks on the machine.  All these devices worked correctly when 
>>>> plugged into the other USB port.  Power cycling with restart and repairing 
>>>> permissions didn't help.  (I only tried the permissions repair because the 
>>>> Software Update had just been run to install a security update before the 
>>>> problem behavior.)  What did work was resetting the PRAM, which apparently 
>>>> restored the USB port to its full power. If the source of your problem is 
>>>> not the aging of your headphones but the USB current support from your 
>>>> computer, this fix might help. I'll give you the instructions I received 
>>>> from Apple's Tech Support, since they're slightly different from what is 
>>>> in the Knowledge Base article.
>>>> 
>>>> 1. Power down the computer and remove the battery from the MacBook. (On my 
>>>> model you need to get a thick coin, like a U.S. nickel, to insert in the 
>>>> slot of the lock for the battery, and give it a quarter turn clockwise to 
>>>> rotate it into the unlock position so the side of the battery near the 
>>>> lock will pop up, and so that the battery can be removed.)
>>>> 2. With the battery removed, hold down the power button for at least 12 
>>>> seconds.
>>>> 3. Replace the battery.  (On my model, you insert the side near the left 
>>>> edge of the laptop so that it engages, and then swing the other end so 
>>>> that it slots into the lock position.  Then you use the coin to turn the 
>>>> slotted lock a quarter turn counter-clockwise to lock again.)
>>>> 4. Hold down the Command, Option, P, and R keys while you power on your 
>>>> laptop.  I press down the Command, Option, and R keys with my left hand 
>>>> (little finger on the Option key, ring finger on the Command key, and 
>>>> either middle or index finger on the R key).  I press the thumb of my 
>>>> right hand on the P key and push  down on the power button with the middle 
>>>> finger of my right hand. 
>>>> 5. You need to keep the Command, Option, P, and R keys pressed for at 
>>>> least 3 start-up chimes before releasing them in order to reset the PRAM.
>>>> 6. Log in as usual and check your USB port connections.
>>>> 
>>>> This fixed all the problems with the USB ports.  I think, because the 
>>>> mouse was being powered, but not enough to register clicks with the 
>>>> system, that full power wasn't going to one of the USB ports.
>>>> 
>>>> I'll point you to the Apple Knowledge Base article on "Apple Computers: 
>>>> Powering a peripheral through USB":
>>>> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4049
>>>> 
>>>> Computer USB 2 ports are supposed to be rated for 500 mAH.  That's less 
>>>> than the 1000 mAH you'll get from an AC outlet (in the U.S.) with a USB 
>>>> charger for the iPhone or iPod Touch, which is why charging your device on 
>>>> the computer's USB port is slower, and which is also why the earlier iPods 
>>>> and iPhones could charge from FireWire connectors that didn't have the 
>>>> same limitation.  Apple shifted the standard connector for its iPods and 
>>>> iPhones to USB2 because most Windows computers didn't have FireWire 
>>>> (a.k.a. IEEE 1394) ports.  This is the source of some of the battery 
>>>> charging error messages that are seen with some iPhone cases -- all 
>>>> devices are now supposed to use chargers that adhere to the more limited 
>>>> current capacities for the USB2 standard.  This is also the reason why 
>>>> some 3rd party batteries will take a long time to charge an iPhone if they 
>>>> only supply 500 mAH of current.  I suspect that this is also why some 
>>>> cases, like the Mophie JuicePack Air, require you to discharge the 
>>>> secondary battery before draining the main iPhone battery for maximum 
>>>> charging use, since most batteries do not maintain power regulation as 
>>>> they discharge and may go out of the regulation specs. (This is of 
>>>> interest to me as an iPod Touch owner, since Mophie just came out with a 
>>>> JuicePack Air for the iPod Touch -- however, it appears to disable the 
>>>> internal speaker whether or not the earbuds are plugged in when the iPod 
>>>> is in the case, and also appears to disable use of the volume, start/stop, 
>>>> and voice control functions of the headset earbuds that com with the iPod 
>>>> Touch 3GS if they are used while the device is in the Mophie JuicePack Air 
>>>> case. This is based on user comments for this product at the Apple Online 
>>>> Store.)  Incidentally, the 10 W Power Adapter for the iPad will charge 
>>>> iPods and iPhones, as well as the iPad (which draws 2100 mAH).  However, 
>>>> the iPad will apparently not charge (even slowly) off the USB ports of 
>>>> non-Mac computers, and when connected to a Mac's USB port (not through a 
>>>> keyboard USB port, and not through a hub), may even give a message that 
>>>> the device is not charging (although, if you wait long enough, it will 
>>>> charge).
>>>> 
>>>> From the same Apple Knowledge Base article that I linked above, here's the 
>>>> information about USB charging on newer Intel Macs:
>>>> "On some newer Intel-based Macs, such as the MacBook (13-inch, Late 2007), 
>>>> when a device requiring more than 5V and 500mA is connected, the port with 
>>>> that device connected to it becomes a high-powered port capable of 
>>>> offering up to 1100 mA at 5 V. That port will continue to operate as a 
>>>> high-powered port until the device is removed. "
>>>> 
>>>> That same Knowledge Base article (about USB charging) is referenced in a 
>>>> link in the Knowledge Base Article about "iPad: Charging the battery":
>>>> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4060
>>>> 
>>>> HTH 
>>>> 
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> 
>>>> Esther
>>>> 
>>>> Nicolai Svendsen wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Hi guys,
>>>>> 
>>>>> So, I'm looking for someone here who knows a lot about hardware, 
>>>>> specifically on the Mac-side and someone who knows a lot in particular 
>>>>> about USB-devices. Oh, and electricity, perhaps.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Here's the deal.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I've got a Skype Wireless Freetalk Headset, the old model. I've been 
>>>>> using it for a while with no issues at all. Eventually, my Mac would 
>>>>> disable the device because it said it was drawing too much power and had 
>>>>> to be disabled.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The headset setup consist of a round-shaped small box with one button to 
>>>>> turn off the receiver completely, and to pair it properly to the receiver 
>>>>> and the headset. On this box there are two buttons, one extending to the 
>>>>> plug of a USB and the other extending to a small, round plug which plugs 
>>>>> into the right side of the headset for charging. Both of these 
>>>>> aforementioned wires both extend away from the round box. When I get the 
>>>>> message above in a dialog box, the headset promptly turns off because 
>>>>> there is no signal being received from the USB port as it becomes 
>>>>> disabled, and when touching the wire charging the headset, it becomes 
>>>>> boiling hot. The USB wire feels fine, but all the way from the point from 
>>>>> which the wire to the charger extends, to the plug that goes into the 
>>>>> headset for charging, becomes incredibly hot and almost impossible to 
>>>>> touch.
>>>>> 
>>>>> My question to those knowing about this type of issue is this: Why would 
>>>>> this happen after a year or so of using this headset just fine? Is it 
>>>>> because the wire is broken? If that is the case, why could I use it for a 
>>>>> couple of hours prior to this happening today, regardless of twisted the 
>>>>> wire became?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks, and I'd be grateful for any advice.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> Nic
>>>>> Mobile Me: nic2...@me.com
>>>>> Skype: Kvalme
>>>>> MSN Messenger: nico...@home3.gvdnet.dk
>>>>> AIM: cincinster
>>>>> yahoo Messenger: cin368
>>>>> Facebook Profile
>>>>> My Twitter
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
>> 
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