Fashionable white-embroidered accessories - C. 1840 to 1900 By Heather Toomer, drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed. Published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace, 2018, paper cover. 192 pages, cover price £ 19.95, ISBN 978-0-9542730-4-0 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Each time Heather Toomer sends a newly-published book for review it calls for a quick preliminary look at the clear photos of items featured, and the lovely drawings of costumes and patterns by Elspeth Reed. This time, what can one do but sigh deeply and wish for occasions in the 21st C. to wear 19th C. collars, cuffs, chemisettes, and undersleeves that covered arms from wrists to elbows? All these items offered opportunities to add laces to lacy embroidered accessories over 100 years ago.  Some lacemakers dress in period clothing when they demonstrate lace skills in museums, historic sites, etc. This raises questions:  1) Are we doing enough demonstrating in period clothing, which has a way of attracting young people who might be tempted to learn lacemaking?  2) Are we developing the skills of a century or more ago so that damaged laces can be repaired?  3) Do we have enough teachers to develop a following by focused students eager to recreate laces?  Oh! So many concerns. These immediate thoughts flooded the mind and were recorded before study of this new research. All of Toomer's books are delicious and of value to textile authors, antiques dealers, auctioneers, collectors, costumers, historians, museum curators, students and teachers, conservation and restoration experts, etc. An added bonus is that one may find information to document favorite laces and lacy embroideries.  Readers of this review may have handmade laces and need patterns of 19th C. embroidery patterns and fashion accessories. You will find them here.  This is the fourth - and last - in a series. Toomer's previous books are: 2013 - White-embroidered costume accessories of the 1790s to 1840s: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg44053.html
2008 - Embroidered with White: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg30243.html  2004 - Baby wore white, robes for special occasions 1800-1910: No review found in Arachne archives. If this is a subject of interest, it is recommended. Reviews can be found by doing a G***le search.  Methods of sewing gradually changed between 1840 and 1900, as hand-operated machines for embroidery became available, followed by widespread use of manually-operated sewing machines on which skilled operators could replicate many types of embroidery.  Even so, lacy white work embroidery often required needle lace fillings, pulled thread work, cut work, needlepoint lace. These techniques offered a great variety of options for one to learn and use.  Comparisons of what the author calls handmachine vs. handmade embroidery will be helpful to scholars and and those who have collected white work of this period. We are provided with well-informed information about Broderie Anglaise (a type of embroidery known also as Renaissance, Richelieu, etc.). Excellent photography of both fronts and backs of accessories will be of great value. It is often an examination of both sides that helps identify who, what, when, where, and how.  Ordering information is at: http://www.heather-toomer.com/175227342 Click on Page 2 for the formal description of this book. Correspond with Heather Toomer at [email protected] This book is also available - in the U.K. only - through Amazon.  When Victoria became Queen, she required adult clothing and accessories. What she and her extensive family wore influenced attire of people all over the world, especially the growing middle class. They adapted the costly laces they could not afford by making accessories that we describe as white work. This resulted in these items being plentiful enough to be available today at reasonable prices. Nearly everyone can afford an antique or vintage white-embroidered accessory to which lace has been added.  Please wear lace! Start a lace discussion!  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
