If you are receiving this as a blind carbon copy, it is because it may be
interesting to you. And, if you are a user of gmail, we know that aol emails
to the Arachne server may not be reaching you.
 
It is reasonably certain the late Aurelia Loveman would be happy to share what
she wrote in the 1987 19-page Museum Catalog for LACE, an exhibit at The
Walters Art Gallery, Baltimore Maryland, from October 4, 1988 to February 26,
1989.  ISBN 0-911886-36-2.  Loveman's wording and phrases are unique, and
not for re-publication.  This excerpt is under copyright, and is being shared
for educational purposes only.
 
The Origins and Development of Handmade Lace
 
Lace is a textile whose identity depends entirely on the arrangement and
proportion of the spaces between the threads that form the fabric. Textiles
other than lace also feature spaces or actual holes in the work, but only as
ornament, not fundament. Lace requires a preponderance of empty space over
thread. However, this is not sufficient to define the textile; net, for
instance, fulfills the condition of preponderant space, but is not lace. The
term "lace" applies only when the holes and threads are perceived as forming
figured patterns on ground.
 
Its unique structure would ensure lace a position of interest in the family of
textiles but would not in itself confer the romantic attraction lace has for
great numbers of people. This additional distinction derives from the fact
that for hundreds of years lace was not simply a fashion accessory; it was a
powerful economic, political, and artistic force in Europe.
 
The lace that can be bought today is imitation, machine-made lace. No matter
how pretty it may be, and some of it is indeed pretty as well as expensive, it
is only superficially like "real lace", as that used to be called, with awe.
Real lace was made by hand, either with needle and thread or with bobbins.
Needle laces (also called "points") are produced by a single continuous
thread, as in embroidery, whereas bobbin laces are made by many threads all in
use at the same time, as in weaving. The two techniques are profoundly
different; indeed, a bobbin lacemaker rarely knows how to make needle lace,
though often the two give surprisingly similar results. 
 
Real lace is an all-but-vanished art form. It appeared in the sixteenth
century and reached a pinnacle of perfection in the two centuries that
followed. But aristocratic, expensive luxury that it was, lace fell victim to
the French Revolution at the close of the eighteenth century, and never fully
recovered. In France lace suddenly disappeared; ladies who previously would
have sold almost anything to acquire it, now threw away their most exquisite
pieces because lace, with its connotations of frivolity, privilege, and
extravagance, became dangerous to own. When the danger subsided a decade
later, fashions had changed. The delicate, clinging lawns and muslins that had
become fashionable were incompatible with the bold and solid needle laces that
had been popular for a hundred and fifty years. The long decline had begun,
and it was soon accelerated by the appearance of machine-made lace. Although
the nineteenth century saw repeated revivals and the declines of the lace
industry, handmade lace was finally shouldered aside by the great textile
machines, which could produce tolerable imitations of various types of lace -
though never lace as "art". Real lace suffered sharp losses of design and
markets. Fashions changed, and it went out of style; the phenomenon, if not
the textile, vanished.
 
etc.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
 

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