See below for Mike Stirewalt's original message...

One of the tactics that was used years ago on engines that had an oil pump
driven by the distributor was to pull the distributor and use a shaft with
the same engagement groove on the end with a variable speed drill to drive
the oil pump at low rpm while moving the crank with a wrench (optional). If
you don't move the crank, just reinsert the distributor/mag at the same
timing position as when it was removed... if you turn the crank, it is a
little more challenging to get the timing close. Not sure if Corvair and VW
engines have similar oil pump drives, but if they do, this might provide
some insurance on a restart of an engine that has been sitting. Mike's plan
for Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders was also part of the method - the
oil pump static will not flood/coat the cylinders with oil, just all of the
oil galleys and bearing journals in the motor. Your results may vary. 

This in conjunction with STP/break-in lube on new motor's bearing surfaces
was common practice.

Mark W.
N952MW (res)

-----Original Message-----
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mike
Stirewalt via KRnet
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 1:41 PM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: laser...@juno.com
Subject: KR> Keeping engine lubed


"I had hand-turned the prop for 30 revolutions once a 
month to keep the parts lubricated."

I used to think this was a good idea and I'm not going to say it's a
_bad_ idea, however someone (perhaps Jeff) on the list pointed out many
years ago that unless the engine is turning at an RPM sufficient to get
the oil pump pumping, periodically turning the prop by hand doesn't bring
any oil up and onto the cam lobes and cylinder walls.    



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