Hey Seth, Those PVC clamps sound like a great idea. I'll definitely give those a go! I'll be going with the 5048 - 45 airfoil too and also plan to delete the foam spar extensions in favour of extending the wooden spars. A full size drawing of the spars on the workbench is another good tip. Thanks :-)
Tony King Brisbane Australia On 12 August 2011 13:35, Seth and Karen Jersild <jersi...@gmail.com> wrote: > Tim and Tony, > I'm just a few months ahead of you two. I added the extra 14" bay > behind the rear spar and 1" total to the front two bays. I'll add 1" of > width to the firewall. The boat will be widened to 42" (outside edge of > longerons) at the shoulders which will necessitate adding some width to > all dimensions forward and aft of that point. I'm also considering > using width dimensions proposed by Gunnar Olson here: > http:/go-design.no/images2.html (scroll to bottom of the page) which > would mean the longerons would run in a straight line from the "K" > station back to the tail instead of from the "I" station. Not sure of > that yet and would appreciate any input. This would obviously diffuse > stress from around that tricky area just aft of the rear spar while > bending the boat. His computer drawings sure make it look good. Sean > Duggan, who started about a month before I did, had to make the > frustrating decision to start all over again recently because of cracked > longerons at that point and it's spooked me a little. > > I've made all my spars to the 5048-45 dimensions and am scarfing plywood > to cover them. I eliminated the foam-and-glass extensions from the tips > of the spars by extending the wood portion of the spars. At first I was > concerned that doing this might make the spar caps too thin to work with > at the tips, but it turned out to be a non-issue. The final product is > very solid. > > If you go with the 5048-45 airfoil, where all the outboard spar > verticals have to be different lengths, I found it helpful to do a > full-scale drawing on my work table of the outboard spars, fore and aft, > so I could get the exact angle of incline for both, and exact > measurements for the length of all the verticals. The drawings also > served as very useful templates while gluing the verticals and planing > the caps down to size. > > An extremely helpful tip I got from Jodel and Falconar builders' > websites was to use PVC clamps for the gussets and some of the diagonals > on my fuselage trusses. Cut a 4" PVC pipe into narrow rings on your > miter saw and then slice the ring at one point. This gives you a lot of > very CHEAP, versatile clamps. Thicker rings make clamps with more > pressure and rigidity, while thinner rings make clamps with less force > and more flexibility. They've worked great for me so far and I hope to > use as many of them as I can while completing the boat. > > Best wishes, > Seth Jersild > jersi...@gmail.com > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
