Hi Darren
It might be simplest to just move the wing attach brackets inboard to meet
at the fuselage, ie., still have separate but short centre front and rear
spars. The rear brackets would then just need to be bent at a different
angle. Whether this is acceptable from an engineering stress point of view
you would need to confirm with an expert. There is a crowd in SE Qld that
sells the select Hoop Pine and you can get GL1 aircraft grade ply from
Mister Ply in Sydney. You can get around the Diehl gear issue by going to
Grove gear which mounts under the fuselage rather than off the spar outboard
from the fuselage.
If I were building again I would do as you intend.
John Martindale
29 Jane Circuit
TOORMINA NSW 2452
AUSTRALIA
phone: 61 2 66584767 (H)
61 2 66869075 (W)
mobile: 0403 049990
email: johnja...@optusnet.com.au
web: www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Crompton" <kr.2s.dar...@gmail.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 10:13 PM
Subject: KR> Figuring out the laminated bent spar.
> Thanks for everyone's input on my previous post "Spruce vs Douglas Fir".
> I
> have decided to build with Australian hoop pine.
>
> That decision made, I have been taking a closer look at the plans
> regarding
> the timber I need to order. I will be using the laminated bent spar and
> as
> described in Mark Langford's site regarding its use
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kopinion.html , I like the idea of
> extending the flaps beyond the stub wing. If I am to taper the the spars
> from root to tip in a straight line, also doing away with the duplicate
> wing
> root template on the end of the stub wing, do I have to bend the laminated
> rear spar forward at the root so the two meet at the tip 15" apart as per
> the plans? If so, how do I bend the 1/4" x 2" laminations about the 2"
> width?
>
> Cheers
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA
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