01-25-07 Hi there;
This thesis is an attempt to help new KR builders who would rather fly than build but have to build because they cannot afford to buy a flyable plane or they just don't want to. They just want to quickly get through the building and on to the flying. There not interested in experimenting but they want to build a quality plane with the latest tested and proven methods that will also provide a greater re-sale value if that time should come. Shall we begin. A new builder/finisher of a KR aircraft might do well to consider the following. - Buy the KR-2 plans with the -S supplement at http://www.fly-kr.com/ and build the KR-2S, you'll be glad you did although some would say that there was nothing wrong with the KR-2 to start with. Your choice. - Obtain and use the full sized drawings of the new KR airfoils of your choice for your situation. AS5045 - AS5046 - AS5048 at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/ . Other choices are to use the original RAF-48 airfoil or Dan Diehl makes a superb and complete wing skin kit with a slightly different airfoil which works equally well. On the subject of the RAF-48 airfoil, some say that there was nothing wrong with it except the angle of attack was too steep. Plans called for 3.5 degrees incidence which made the plane fly slightly nose down at high speed. It has been suggested that 1.0 degree of incidence would be better (double check this) which means raising the rear spar about 3/4" or so above plans, I believe this could also be used on the Diehl wings since it is very similar to the RAF-48 airfoil. I use a Sears electronic angle finder here for precision to the tenth of a degree along with laser levels both to level the fuselage and set wing and horizontal stabilizer incidence. Your choice. - Select your horizontal stabilizer incidence and/or wing angles according to the airfoil or situation (if you bought a previously started project) you have or want. (see above link) - Use T-88 structural epoxy for all wood glue joints because if you ever want to sell it in the future, using anything else may hurt the re-sale value. - Build the fuselage 40 inches wide at the outside of the top longeron in the shoulder area (plans show 36") and taper the width in from there to the tail post. You'll be glad you did unless you want to use the stock R/R pre-molded canopy frame and turtle deck without possibly also widening them. - Stay away from the retractable landing gear unless you just must have it, remember KISS. Fixed tail draggers with good "wheel pants" are slightly faster anyway, "Diehl or Grove" brand. See http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html and fixed tri-gears are easier for some pilots to handle on the ground but are slightly slower in the air. Your choice. - On the subject of landing gear, wheels and brakes. You might do well to use this shopping list suggested by Stephen Henderson unless you know what you want and have a preference already. >From Dan Diehl at Diehl Aero-Nautical, http://www.diehlaero.com/landing.htm >get his main gear kit. ---lower cost and better versatility. >From Tracy O'Brien at http://www.tracyobrien.com/showcat.asp?id=9 order (1 set of 2) C-90 Hydraulic Disc Brakes for Cessna-Style Gear --- clean uncluttered aerodynamics, compact and ease of use. Tire and wheel can be removed without removing brakes. Same style as used on F-16's I'm told. (2) 5"x 3"x 5/8" Tri-Star wheels --- low cost and seem to be widely used. (2) Sawtooth tread tire with tube 410-350x5" --- one stop shopping, decent choice. (2) Cessna-style 5/8" chromoly axles Model 5-63 --- one stop shopping, decent choice. Master cylinders and pedals. http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/pedals/index.html Referance the "Pine Bluff" picture. This is the best I've seen yet. (only my opinion) Your choice may vary. P.S. "PLEASE!" DO NOT USE PLASTIC BRAKE LINES. Use aluminum or better yet, steel, and if you need a flexible line, use braded steel lines made for brake use. - Build a long narrow 10" or so, wide fuel tank of Polyurethane foam, fibreglass cloth and vinyl ester resin, or some builders use PCV pipe or aluminum. Your choice, in each outer wing panel, up against the back side of the front spar. This helps the Center of Gravity remain more constant as fuel is used and keeps the fuel as far away from you as possible. Don't forget the splash baffles. You could also use a small header tank under the forward deck with this setup if you choose. Your choice. These are choices that need to be made first before starting to build or completing a project, they are hard or impossible to change later and could hurt any resale value they might have in the future. All of the other choices like engines, tires/wheels, flaps/belly boards, props/spinners and the like are easier to change at any time you feel the need but the "hull" (Insurance speak) needs to be done right the first time. Dan Heath and some others say that * A dual or single control stick between the legs is a great advantage in the KR, instead of the "between the seats" stick. Plan on it from the beginning. * Insure that your headroom is sufficient. The typical turtle deck is very round. Squaring it off a little, will give you much better head room, where you need it. See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcf.html * The canopy choice is very important. Dan say's, I have built the tilt to the side, and the "gullwing" type, and feel that the tilt forward would be the best in terms of ease of access, weight, and ease of construction. I might add that a rocking forward canopy might be a good choice also. See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/klesterp.html * A removable "forward" and "turtle" deck can be a great advantage for maintenance and inspection. See http://www.flykr2s.com/hood.html This list is on-going so check back once in a while as new things may be added. Regards Myron (Dan) Freeman Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA mfreem...@indy.rr.com
