Thanks for the advicce, Larry! I had no idea an Alodined surfaced could be
glued. I treat all my aluminum parts with Alodine, essentially because I
like the finish. Now, you just gave me an extra good reason to do so.
Being the paranoid I am, in any case, I will make a rediundant solution:
glue PLUS rivets.
Serge
"Larry H." <lah...@yahoo.com>
Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
22/08/2006 20:42
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 22/08/2006 20:42
Pour : KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: KR> flaps/PREP
As food for thought, if you were going to glue two pieces of aluminum
together you may want to rough sand the two surfaces to be adjoined so the
adhesion would be stronger because of the roughness just like anything you
glue or paint. If you choose to do this then you have probably removed any
corrosion resistance that may have come on the tube or sheet from the
factory that made it. In this case it may be advisable to apply aladine to
the surface to seal the aluminum from corrosion in the future if you did
sand the orginal coating off.
The reason I am bringing this up has to do with LongEzes elevators. The
original plans had you take the aluminum tubing which became your torque
tube for the elevator, sand it down to rough it up for better adhesion,
glue your hot wired air foil shaped foam trailing edge to it with epoxy.
Then you wrapped the fiberglass cloth around the leading edge of the
exposed tube and onto the foam to mate the two together and form the
elevator. All was fine for a few years until there were some of the ezes
that developed corrosion on the surface of the tubes and then there was no
adhesion, the corrosion had caused the seperation. It seems very strange
that an epoxy coated,sanded aluminum tube would be able to corrode, but
obviously they can. The repair is to remake your canard elevator. The
procedure now includes sanding the tube as before but now you aladine the
tube before you glue the foam and fiberglass to it with epoxy. The aladine
does not remove or fill the roughness sanded
into the tube for better grip/adhesion it's job is to seal the aluminum
to prevent corrosion.
You all may already be doing this but I thought I would mention it just
in case someone that didn't know may want to do this as an extra
precaution. Non alidined sanded aluminum glued together parts may last way
past our life times but never hurts I guess.
The old saying is "If I knew better then I would do better" !!
Larry H.
Mark Langford <n5...@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> That is pretty much what I have in mind, except I would like to find
(or
> make) an aluminum flange to replace the clamp collars, then glue AND
rivet
> that flange to both the torque tube and the bellcranks. The tube stops
> could be made the same way.
I've used T-88 to glue some aluminum parts together, and I dare say
nothing
is ever going to separate them. It would be interesting to test what
happens after a few freeze/thaw/hot cycles, but I'm betting they're more
or
less permanent.
The part number for the clamp collars that I used is 6436k72 from Mcmaster
Carr. They're for 3/4" OD tubing. I don't expect you to order it, but some
other folks on this side of the pond might be interested. These are
aluminum, and allow easy adjustment of range, limit, and synchronization
between the two flaps. Next time I do this I may use a carbon fiber torque
tube rather than 4130...
Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
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