Don,
My set-up has got NO turnbucles anywhere near the stick. On the aileron
loop, there is only one turnbuckle, and it is at the back, behind the rear
spar, on the portion of cable that links the two bellcranks.
Of course, to do that, you have to get the length of the two other
portions of cable absolutely right, within the tolerance of your aileron
control horn rod adjustment, and with no discrepancy between left and
right. But that's quite feasible.
Serge s
D F Lively <riksh...@interl.net>
Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
24/04/2006 19:18
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 24/04/2006 19:18
Pour : KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>, serge.vi...@sageem.com
cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: KR> Making neat dual sticks without a single weld
Serge:
I have made thge same observation and see no good reason why it should be
so
difficult and I wish to change to a dual stick anyway but see a potential
problem with adequate room beteen the outside of the sticks and
wing-fuselage
interface fore the turn-buckles. I am almost driven to this by a stupid
that
the person that started this craft that I took over did.
Don Lively
Burlington. IA 52601
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Serge VIDAL wrote:
> On Sunday, I had a look at the dual sticks assembly on my KR2, and I
found
> enough rust here and there to decide it needed a good repaint; so, I
> removed the complete assembly from the KR2 to bring it home.
>
> Man, that was a mission! Because there was not enough clearance around
the
> screws that hold the Nylon blocks to the main spar to use a socket. Took
> me forever to unscrew. Bugger!
>
> Anyway, my dual stick is pretty much the same design as Mark Langford's,
> with a torque tube and a rod that links both sticks at the bottom. I
was
> thinking that it is a shame that it is made of steel, because it sure is
> heavy; aluminum would be lighter and look nicer, but welding aluminum
> always is a big issue.
>
> Then I realized that to make it, you don't really need to weld anything.
> And this applies to any torque tube. All you have to do is to order
> ready-made aluminum flanges that fit around the tube. Then, to make the
> tube guides (stops), you would simply rivet the flanges to the tubes.
You
> could also Epoxy glue the flange to the tube before you rivet, for
safety.
> To make the horn, you would cut an aluminum plate that would match the
> flange flat size (rim) plus the protruding horn , and rivet it to the
> flange. The stick attachment would be made with two plates each, that
> would be rivetted to the tube.
>
> I talked to one of my colleagues who is an experienced builder, and he
> told me that actually, several European designs use torque tubes built
> more or less that way.
>
> Probably not worth rebuilding the part for this KR2, but this is
something
> I will definitely try on my next aircraft ;-)
>
> Serge Vidal
> KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
> Paris, france
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