So obviously this does not reduce the cross sectional area of the longeron
too much??? I have tried weighing substantial amounts of cured waste T-88 to
see just how much extra it adds and found it took quite a lot to make even a
small change on my digital scale, there would also be a fair bit absorbed
into the wood I guess. Like the idea of the tapered spruce blocks.
Chris.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry&Sallie Flesner" <fles...@verizon.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: KR> cockpit floor
> At 06:20 AM 1/24/2006, you wrote:
>>Not quite up to this stage but getting close, but I can forsee a
>>problem in that if the side frames are canted outward, then the
>>floor has only the top edge of the lower longeron to mount to, so
>>what do you do, simply glue to the top edge of the lower longeron ???
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> Use whatever tool is convenient and trim the top side of the lower
> longeron
> to match the angle of the floor so you have contact across the entire
> longeron or nearly so. Use some flox for filler when you epoxy the floor
> to the longeron. I added a tapered spruce block to the top side also
> between the uprights as a gusset of sorts for extra glue area. Probably
> overkill and ounces add up to pounds in the end.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
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