Hussein Nagy and netters For the benefit of all new builders I will answer to the net. I asked a similar question to Mark L. some years ago, and his reply was this: If you have not started on your wings yet, then by all means use the AS5046, which mates better to the RAF 48 stub wing, and taper out to an appropriate size, I believe it was AS5044 or something close to that. Read closely the narrative that Mark Langford has on the virtues of the new wing, and it will detail what he did to mate the new wing to the existing stub wing, then just copy what he did. This pattern has been followed by 3 builders that I know of for sure, and I believe as many as 8 or more may be flying with the new wing and are enjoying it. My wings were already complete, so I am still flying the RAF48 wing.
Yes get rid of the retracts, especially if you are not commercial/complex rated. Your own plane is not when you need to learn about gear up landings. One happened during the Corvair College that Mark L. reported I believe. The retracts are heavy, hard to use, and known to collapse. A good set of Grove Gear or the Dan Diehl conventional are much better, lighter, and give more ground clearance for a really nice prop. There is alot of bantering about this in the archives. My personal opinion is that if you do not have your tail wheel endorsement yet, and you do not have alot of hours, and do not have a budget that will allow for bi-monthly flying to stay current, then my advice would be to also install a nose wheel and convert to tri-gear. It will be the configuration that you are most familiar with, will train in, and will be easiest for you to transition into your own plane, with its own flight characteristics. Tri-gear will eliminate one additional factor of transition and mistakes that you will encounter while learning your new plane. The sizing of the tail feathers is going to have to be your call. Mine are plans built with a de-tuned elevator actuation through the use of a push tube and bell crank setup that increases the stick required throw, while still preserving the total travel possible. I enjoy it very much and feel that I have much better harmony between the ailerons and elevator now. I also borrowed an idea from Larry Flesner about modifying the aileron bell cranks in order to get full actuation. I moved the cable attach point closer to the pivot point by 1/2 an inch, which allowed for proper movement, and aligned the push tube to be horizontal by using a spacer tube on the push tube bolt. Details on the web page. If you plan to fly solo, or with small passengers ( say under 80 pounds) then 2180 VW power is okay. My personal opinion is that if you desire to carry 2 large people like me and someone else, ( I weigh 195) then you will need closer to 100 hp, and the Corvair, turbo VW, or similar power plants will be necessary. Keep in mind on the STOCK KR2, the recommended power plants are under 250 pounds, and I would definitely plan on an engine under 280 or else plan on mods to the fire wall, relocation of items normally found forward etc... due to the extra weight. Also, do not expect to have an over 180 mph airplane as it will now be very heavy as KRs' go. The fastest are under 650 empty. Good luck building, good questions... Colin Rainey brokerpilot9...@earthlink.net EarthLink Revolves Around You.
