For steel and aluminum parts I have always had the best luck durability and
ease of painting wise with spray can barbecue paint.  You can get it at Home
Depot.  After it dries you pop it in the oven at a few hundred degrees for a
half hour and it gets very hard and scratch resistant.  For a heat treated
part I would not go more than 200 degrees (if someone knows the exact
temperature you want to stay under please chime in).  I have had the best
luck sanding with about 320 and cleaning with acetone before painting.  I
have used zinc chromate under the barbecue paint with no problems, but most
of the time I don't bother to prime.

Hang it in the oven, do not put it on the rack.  The paint gets soft at
first and it will come out with char broil lines if you put it on the rack.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-----Original Message-----
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Serge VIDAL
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 6:06 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> Sanding and painting the WAFs


I am now ready to repaint my WAFs, but I cannot find any tips in either
Tony Bingelis's books, or the AC 4313 about finishing steel parts like the
WAFs.  I intend to coat them with zinc chromate primer.

Questions:

1) Which grit should I use for final sanding?

2) What is the best way to degrease? Should I dip the part in degreaser,
or rub it with a cloth soaked in degreaser, or what?

3) Should I heat the part before I paint?

4) Should I heat the part while the paint dries?

Should I apply one coat, or several?

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France
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