If the bearing comes loose from the rod end, the hole is larger than the castle nut and normal washer. Hence the request for a A970/aka Wood washer.
-- Ross On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:58:22 -0500, Joseph H Horton <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com> wrote: > > > On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:36:07 -0600 larry flesner <fles...@midwest.net> > writes: >> >You may also find that adding a washer ( 3/16 flat) between the rod >> end and >> >the aileron control arm will help get the required deflection. >> Without the washer, the rod end will bind on the arm at the end of >> >it's travel each way. >> >Chris Gardiner >> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ >> >> Also, make sure you use a "wood washer" over the outside of the >> rod end bearing on each end. If the bearing comes loose from the >> rod end, the rod won't drop completely off. >> >> Larry Flesner > I also fond in my initial fit up of the linkage that spacers were going > to be needed. Although I wasn't surprised as I had modified the bell > crank to fit neatly in the new airfoil. I'm using 3/16" alum tube cut to > length as spacers. > Larry - Sorry, but I don't follow the thought. I'm using fiberlock > castle nuts with cotter pins on the rotating bolts. ( belt and suspenders > in my thoughts) Isn't that OK.? > Joe Horton > Coopersburg, Pa. > joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html -- Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/