>Interesting subject. What I had proposed to do was to bring hot air, instead >of ambient temperature air inside the carb intake. There seems to be another >solution which is to heat the carburetor body itself. Now, I wonder... My >intake is already from inside the engine compartment, which is probably very >hot already. Should I bother, after all?
DO NOT rely on heat transfer from the engine block/manifold to prevent icing. When cars had carbs they relied on a "heat riser" from the exhaust manifold to keep the carb hot enough to prevent icing. It didn't always work. I had a 60 Plymouth with a 318 which died twice due to ice almost completely filling the venturi (per visual inspection). Conditions were 40/50 Deg.F, 100% humidity in heavy rain. It took about 1/2 hour for the residual heat in the block to melt the ice before I could get going again. Car engine blocks, being water-cooled, have a LOT more total heat mass than an air-cooled VW. Work up some source of hot air, probably from the exhaust manifold, and use it Early and Often. Remember, once the engine quits there won't be much heat left. Allen G. Wiesner - KR-2S/TD? #1118 (still in the B&P stage) - A&P, retired Sikorsky Tech. Rep. 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyallen@aol
