I realize that some will disagree with me here so feel free to flame away, just please do it off the list so you don't use a bunch of bandwith.
One of the first things I did when I got my KR was to rip out every wire in it and replace it with Tezfel insulated aircraft wire. It is a real pain to work with since it is so slippery and it comes in any color you want as long as you want it in white. My total cost for all of the wire, and I had a LOT of wire in my plane, was under $100.00. I had a PVC insulated wire go up in smoke in a car one time and it only took one breath before I nearly choked to death and I almost cause an accident getting off the road and opening a window. You don't have the option of pulling over and opening the window in an airplane. And keep in mind that we are not talking about a lot of smoke here, it was just a tiny bit of smoke and a bunch of toxic gass from the insulation that had my lungs burning like they were on fire. There have been some recent questions on circuit protection and also on hardware. Always protect ALL circuits with the appropriate sized circuit breaker or fuse. Size the breaker or fuse to protect the wire size it is connected to and be sure you sized the wire for the current draw on it and the length. The correct sizes of wire and protection devices can be found in FAA advisory circular AC 43.13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices. You can buy the book or download it from the FAA web site. It also contains all the information you would ever want to know on aircraft hardware, correct safety wiring practices, wood working procedures, and in general, about everything you need to know when building an airplane. Keep a copy prominently displayed when the FAA inspector comes by and you will see an instant smile on his face. I have said before, and repeat that anyone building a homebuilt should have a copy, should read it, and should refer to it all the time. Just this A&Ps humble opinion. I know these are experimental aircraft and you don't need to do everything to the regs, but remember that a wire will burn up or a wrong bolt will break just as easily in an experimental as a certified plane. -----Original Message----- From: Rich Meyer <cpt...@npcc.net> Sent: Feb 24, 2004 11:56 PM To: 'KRnet' <kr...@mylist.net> Subject: RE: KR>WIRING There's no advantage to running two separate wires. If all you are running on this circuit is that tail-lamp, probably 2A or so, I'd suggest home depot 18 ga. speaker wire. One copper colored and one silver colored in clear insulation makes seeing polarity easy. Do you want the light to run all the time, or are you going to switch it? Do you have any other power run to behind your seat that you can tap, instead of coming all the way to the panel? Rich Meyer Millersburg IN 46543 cpt...@npcc.net phone 574-642-3963 cell 574-202-3920 -----Original Message----- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Lee Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 11:27 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR>WIRING Hey Netters, I am in a dicision mode for wiring for a light added to the tail of my KR2. The light is an automotive type, added to the rudder like a few other people have done. My question is what is the best wire to use to link the light to the switch up front. Gauge of wire, 2 seperate wires or a bundle wire with 2 stands, home depot has a large selection, or do I go to Auto Zone???? Lee Van Dyke Mesa AZ l...@vandyke5.com http://vandyke5.com/kr2.htm _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
