Sorry about this folks but my emails to Larry and Mark continue to be blocked by Road Runner and my provider and I cannot email the latter direct as per their removal/fix instructions because the nominated address is being blocked also!! Talk about Catch 22. This is ridiculous. I and my provider are not being blocked by other systems including the KRnet so why should I have to go to such lengths to get past Road Runner. In my view it is RR that has the problem. I am not a spammer and I have some honest information for Larry and Mark as copied below that may be of interest to all.
Regards John The Martindale Family 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 email: johnj...@chc.net.au FOR LARRY: Hello Larry Actually it is not my design but based on a principle I found on the archives some time ago. I think it was called the bambi style. In my humble view it is the simplest and strongest option and will remain closed in flight in the event of a latch failure. The minimium length of the arms depends on the centre height of the front turtledeck above the hinge point...too short and it will not open enough. The longer the length, the further towards or even past vertical the canopy will open. You really need to draw a scale side view sketch and impose the radius (length from hinge point to centre front canopy lip) on the turtledeck height. On mine, the turtledeck is approx 7" above the longerons and the arm protrudes approx 7" forward of the the point where the lip meets the canopy. This is difficult to explain in words....perhaps you could scale off the Langford picture using an instrument diameter as a guide. The arm is composed of a 1/4" ply rail that follows the longeron curve and has the canopy frame glassed to it. Within the glass, lying along the rail and protruding forward the 7" is a 1" and 1" aluminium angle that has a bronze hinge pivot bush pressed into its vertical face at the leading end. You could use a small bearing just as easily. The length of the angle overall and thus the ultimate opening canopy angle is limited by the curvature of the rail and the need to keep the former parallel with the other side so it will open without binding. The angle piece picks up on a 1" and 1/8" aluminium bar slotted vertically through the longerons and flush bolted through a spruce spacer to the fuselage side. AN3 bolts with castle nuts and cotters complete the hinge. Small gas struts mounted appropriately to the angle provide the opening force. My front deck is not removable but does have an inspection panel cut into it that gives access to instruments etc. Most of the usual fuel tank space forward of that becomes a luggage locker with a curved door only accessible on the ground. Hope this helps, Larry. It's probably best to get the principle in your head and then work around the dimensions until you're happy. I'm on holidays at the moment but will forward you some photos on my return. Regards John. FOR MARK: Hi Mark It's a 40 DCOE Weber (double side draft with shared bowl). Each throat serves one head or three cylinders and has 30 mm choke, idle jet 60F8, accelerator pump jet 65, main jet 160, emulsion tube F9 and air correction jet 200. I get 3100 rpm static using a 56" three blade Warp Drive set at 10 degrees of pitch. It seems to operate OK and is easy to muck around with jets etc accessible under the Mickey Mouse cap. I haven't tried any other carb so it's difficult to compare. A drawback is that there is no mixture control. I had thought to use the choke section to fill this function but it depends on suction at idle across the butterfly and thus cuts out at higher revs. The carb also gets rather hot on top of the engine after flight making subsequent hot starts a little difficult. I have been thinking about remounting it either below the engine or using a different carb all together off the firewall so I can have mixture control either manual or self compensating...that Harley number looks appealing as does the CV Stromberg. It's not a high priority at present as I'm mainly concerned about getting my oil temp ( up to 140 C would prefer under 110 C) down on hot Australian summer days...looking at a dedicated scoop for the oil cooler rather than relying just on flow through the front from the prop otherwise a larger remote cooler seems to be the last option. Regards John
