>Does anyone have templates or info for baffles for a Revmaster 2100-D in >a KR-2S. Also interested in various canopy and wing tip designs for same. >Woody ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
When I built my wing tips I was more concerned with getting them both the same shape than I was with the shape itself. The technique I "stumbled" upon actually produced a tip that very closely resembles a "Hoerner" style tip. Also, I added my tips after having the wing panels completely glassed. The technique should work with only the top surface glassed. The following is basiclly the way I did it: I added 2 two inch foam blocks to each wing tip (glued to the 36 inch rib) for a total of 4 inchs of foam. You should be able to make longer tips if you want and the process should still work. Next I sanded the foam to airfoil shape and glassed the top surface. When cured, I sanded the edge straight with a sanding board and then flipped the wing to "bottom up". I'll try not to lose you on what I call "cut-back" angle. I used a 2 inch cut-back but I think a 3 or 4 inch cut-back might be better and would make for a more tappered tip. I'd suggest you go 3 inches and if you don't like the angle cut again to 4 inches. Let me explain. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the foam. I biased the blade against the finished fiberglass edge of the top surface and followed the line on the bottom where the 2 inch foam blocks were joined. As the wing thickness varies so does the shape of the tip. It goes from a very flat angle at the thin trail edge to a much more shallow angle at the thick part of the wing just like a "Hoerner" tip. Next radius the lead and trail edge corners. I used a large mixing cup for the lead edge radius and a corner of a tape measure for the trail edge. Just pick something that looks right. Last, sand a small radius on the bottom side cut line and round over the lead edge radius. Two minutes of light hand sanding should do it. Add the glass and finish. Make sure you cut back the foam at the finished edge ( top surface ) and add some "resin rich flox" so you get a good bond between the top and bottom glass surfaces. If you go to http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/26.jpg you can get a bit of an idea what I'm talking about. This is a very poor picture and you can't really see the angle changes with wing thickness or the radiused corners. It does give you a bit of an idea of the 2 inch cutback angle and why I think it could be 3 or 4 inches. I'm sure this is clear as mud, right? Your results may vary........... Larry ( running up and down the runway in my KR ) Flesner
