Yes, their are better alternatives. I am using one I think. It's Dupont Etchant prime which is a medium build [weight] primer for all types of material [metal, fiber, SS, Alum and etc.]. It required a spray application but no more than 2 or 3 coats depending on you finish. I believe Dupont developed it for the aircraft and auto industries.
Ron ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Peg and Mike Meyer" <pmme...@swbell.net> Reply-To: KR builders and pilots <kr...@mylist.net> List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 14:19:55 -0500 >If you want to extend the useful life of a patch of cross-linked smooth >prime, put it in the refrigerator when you're done. I've been able to >maintain workable smooth prime for many, many hours after I've cross-linked >it. > >I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You wind up >waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficult >to see the imperfections that really need the attention. Martin-Senour, PPG, >and a variety of other manufacturers offer dry sandable primer-surfacer that >flashes in about 10 minutes. You can lay as many coats as you'd like in >about an hour with a HVLP gun. The products I've been looking at are used on >Corvettes, so it can't be all bad (UV protection and all that). Beside >which, it's one hell of a lot cheaper. I'm going to talk to my local PPG guy >before I make the switch. If it's a suitable match, I'll never use >overpriced, overblown smooth prime again. > >Mike Meyer > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "larry flesner" <fles...@midwest.net> >To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net> >Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:45 AM >Subject: KR>Smooth Prime (long) > > >> >> >> I've just opened my third gallon of Smooth Prime and I'm getting >> close to finished on priming my KR. I'll share a few observations >> on what I've experienced so far. >> >> - Read the ( manufactures) directions carefully so you know >> what you're doing. >> >> - A propeller shaped paint mixer on a 1/4 drill motor does a >> good job of mixing and it is not necessary to locate a paint >> shaker as suggested in the directions. If the primer has set >> for some time you will want to use a stir stick to loosen the >> solids that have compacted on the bottom of the can when >> you mix the primer. >> >> - The first three coats require adding "cross-linker". I used >> a quart fruit jar for mixing. It has to be used in eight hours >> so don't mix more than you intend to roll on in that amount >> of time. >> >> - Some light sanding after two or three coats will help get a >> smooth finish a bit more quickly and with less effort. The >> first coats will have a very rough finish because of the high >> solids content of the primer. 240 or 320 grit paper works >> well for that. >> >> - No matter how careful you are you will have "pimples" and >> flecks of solids in the finish. These come from primer that >> has dried in your paint dish and around the rim of the can and >> then find there way into the primer. They will easily sand off >> but a better method is to use a small scraper with the single >> edge razor blade. Carefully run the scraper across the surface >> at a shallow angle and they cut right off. If you sand them off >> you will sand off primer around the spot that you will have to >> replace. >> >> - Another flaw you will get is "ridges" in the primer that come from >> the end of the roller that you fail to see and don't get rolled out. >> Use your razor scraper to remove these also but draw the blade >> down the length of the ridge in a near vertical motion. It will only >> take off the ridge and not the surrounding primer. >> >> - The directions say you can either spray or roll on the last three >> coats. When spraying it says to add some water to thin the >> primer. This also works when rolling and will help to give a >> smoother finish. I used a pint jar and added a bit of water at a >> time until I got the mix I wanted. >> >> - I found I could use the primer with a 6" rubber squeegee and >> very light pressure to fill minor defects. It dries very quickly and >> is ready to sand in a very short time. I added some "micro" to >> the primer and used the squeegee to fill slightly larger defects >> with good results. >> >> - When I started I used a plastic spout to pour primer from the >> can into my mixing jars. The problem is you can never get all >> the primer off the spout and the bottom edge of the can rim. >> This will cause you to later get a lot of dried flecks of primer >> that find their way onto the finish. When I started my last >> gallon I switched to using small disposable cups to dip the primer >> from the can. I use my roller to clean out the "dipping" cup and >> then toss the cup into the trash, starting with a clean cup on the >> next draw. >> >> - For safety reasons you should wear a mask while sanding. I hate >> the mask because my glasses don't fit well and keep "fogging" >> as I breath. My solution is to sand in an open area and use two >> window fans mounted in a stand. I Keep the fans close to my >> work and always keep my head in the direct blast of air and >> "up wind" of the area I'm sanding. USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT >> HERE. >> >> - Last but not least, the discouraging news. When you think you >> are nearly finished, look again. You will most likely find you are >> only about half done! >> >> As always, do your own testing. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. >> >> I hope to be painting in the next 30 days and my painter has >> convinced me to use a DuPont paint that sells for $38 a gallon. >> I've seen his "work truck" that he painted 8 years ago in his >> driveway in Florida and the paint seems to have held up well. >> The color selection is limited but the color white available seems >> to be what I'm looking for. I intend to use vynal for my trim strips. >> More info on that later. >> >> Happy building....... >> >> Larry Flesner >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > -- Ronald R. Eason Sr. Pres. & CEO, KCMO Office J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd. 816-468-4091, Kansas City, MO. Jim Eason V.P, 770-446-1291, Atlanta, Georgia Web Page: www.jrl-engineering.com --
