The materials for these two wing tanks cost $364.70 plus about $36 for Dana to ship them to me.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" <flyk...@wi.rr.com> To: "KR Net" <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 5:39 PM Subject: KR>Aluminum tanks cost!!! > Dana Overall who built the tanks for me suggested I forward this e-mail to > the net for all to read. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dana Overall" <bo12...@hotmail.com> > To: <flyk...@wi.rr.com> > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 3:50 PM > Subject: Re: Another wing tank!!-LONG > > > > Mark, > > > > I just received a private email informing me that Justin had asked you how > > much I charged to fabricate your wing tanks. I don't care if everyone > knows > > what I charged you as long as they know why I did it. First of all, this > > was not for a "noble" cause. I simply acquired some new airplane building > > knowledge when I started construction of my RV. I had absolutely no metal > > working skills prior to receiving my tail kit. It was either learn or > screw > > up. Very quickly I realized by modifying some basic aluminum construction > > techniques, an aluminum KR tank could be constructed in numerous > > configurations. The same construction techniques could be used in all > > configurations. What I wanted to do was enable the builder to use > standard > > aviation hardware, ie. fuel pickup, vent line, fuel cap and quick drain. > I > > hadn't seen documentation of aluminum tanks, only questions on how it > could > > be incorporated in the KR design. The goal was to come up with techniques > > that could be performed by the average builder using minumal tools along > > with a very fast learning curve. An example of this, are the angles on > the > > top of the tank. I didn't want to have to bend breaks in the top to fit > the > > side wall perfectly to decrease the chance for leaks......thus the cheater > > angles that made a nice resting bed for the top. I think two , maybe > three, > > very important factors are present in your tank. One is the one inch > break > > all around the bottom of the tank to support the tank floor around the > > entire diameter. The second is tying the baffles to the top and bottom of > > the tank. This will decrease the chance for the bottom flexing at the aft > > edges of the baffle causing stress cracks. If someone does have flex, > when > > the tank is full, stiffeners need to be riveted side to side on the bottom > > between the baffles to give structure to that area of the floor. > > > > If all else fails, I tried it, you can bend the flanges for every part by > > clamping the aluminum down to your work bench with a piece of wood running > > along the break line and whack the aluminum with a hammer to bend the > > flanges. A handfull of 1/8" clecos, pop rivet tool, drill, a file and > > sheet metal shears are all you need to build these things. I know we > > accomplished our goal of building you a set of leak free tanks that will > > take any kind of fuel and will last the lifetime of your KR. I > accomplished > > my goal of formulating a construction technique that can be duplicated by > > the average KR builder. KISS is seriously incorporated in the > construction. > > Your tanks were used as a means to offer an alternative to the average > KR > > builder. For years, threads have run their course on the KRNet concerning > > aluminum tanks. They always ended up going nowhere. One thing I cannot > > stress enough is the use of AN solid AH pop rivets. You cannot use > hardware > > store bought aluminum pop rivets. It will look like a fuel tank, but that > > is about it. > > > > Just for public knowledge here are three pics of your fuel vent line on > your > > second tank. The first shows how I attached the screen. I drilled a > small > > hole through the 3/8" pickup line then ran a piece of safety wire through > > the screen and line. The second is a check for fit Sunday morning and the > > final one is after finishing the tank early Sunday afternoon. As you can > > see, you should have a lot of useable fuel. I proseal the screen to the > > tube and to the tank bottom. Just to show how these tanks go together, I > > went from second pic. to completed in pic. three in about 3.5 hours. > > > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/fuel1.jpg > > > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/fuel2.jpg > > > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/fuel3.jpg > > > > Since I was going to use my new found knowledge in aluminum work by > building > > a model tank, why not build it for someone to use. I wanted to do this > for > > someone on the KR net whom I knew and was an "old timer". Although you > were > > not present in the old AOL KRNet days (I think there were less than 50 us > of > > then), your work is impeccable after visiting with you previously. > > > > If anyone on the KRNet has a question concerning the techniques I used, I > > will certainly be available off the KRNet to assist. Before I unsubscribed > > from the KRNet I said I would document the construction, I did that. Now > > that I have completed both tanks, it finally feels like I am off the KRNet > > after either 8 or 9 years. If I have any gems come up, I'll subscribe for > a > > day and post it. I don't want to unsubscribe then use you as a messenger. > > With that said, feel free to forward this and as a reminder to Justin > (just > > because you asked).............I did both of them for free. > > > > > > > > Dana Overall > > Richmond, KY > > RV-7 slider/fuselage > > http://rvflying.tripod.com > > do not archive > > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html >
