Wanna sell it?
Bill Jacobs
------ Original message------From: don january via KRnet Date: Fri, Jun 24,
2016 11:58 PMTo: krnet at list.krnet.org;Cc: don january;Subject:Re: KR> KRnet
Digest, Vol 4, Issue 165I just had to jump in and say I have a beautiful 1985
kr-2 that got it's AWC with a VW and later I mounted a Corvair and it was a
flop. Now it sit's and wait's for the latest greatest engine to come along.
"Bummer"--------------------------------------------On Fri, 6/24/16,
krnet-request at list.krnet.org wrote: Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 165
To: krnet at list.krnet.org Date: Friday, June 24, 2016, 11:00 AM Send KRnet
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re:
Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: ???1. Re:? VW Engines (Kayak
Chris) ???2. Re:? VW Engines (Kayak Chris) ???3. Re:? Revmaster R3000 (Dj
Merrill) ???4. Re:? VW Engines (Bill Jacobs) ???5. Re:? VW Engines (Pete Klapp)
???6. Re:? VW Engines (n357cj) ???7. Re:? Axles? (Matt Quimby) ???8.? R-3000
(laser147 at juno.com) ???9. Re:? VW Engines (Larry Flesner) ? 10. Re:? VW
Engines (n357cj) ? 11. Re:? VW Engines (Alastair Hawkins) ? 12. Re:? VW heads
(Mark Langford) ? 13. Re:? Revmaster R3000 (Phillip Hill) ? 14.? Revmaster
R2300 and R3000 info (Kayak Chris) ? 15. Re:? VW Engines (Phillip Hill) ? 16.
Re:? VW Engines (Kayak Chris) ? 17. Re:? VW Engines - hub removal (Mark
Langford) ? 18. Re:? VW Engines (Patrick Driscoll) ? 19.? painting update.
(Mike Sylvester) ? 20. Re:? Cable safe (Daniel Heath) ? 21. Re:? painting
update. (ml at n56ml.com) ? 22.? painting update (Mike Sylvester) ? 23. Re:? VW
Engines (Tommy Waymack) ? 24. Re:? VW Engines (Chris Gardiner)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 12:39:31 -0400 From: Kayak Chris To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=UTF-8 how does a corvair engine get "run without a front bearing" and
does this mean front main crank bearing, or some other bearing outboard of the
case? Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR has taken
to >> circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth throughout the engine?
> > That sounds like an engine that was run without a front bearing for some >
period of time. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 23 Jun
2016 12:43:14 -0400 From: Kayak Chris To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Well this set of
comments would have me steer well clear of GPASC engine. Even if they are
reliable when properly mated and assembled, it sounds like their crankshaft/hub
solution is not very serviceable down the line. After all these years how can
this not been resolved? Presumably the revmaster solution is more certain in
service and serviceability. Having built one of these several times, I'm not
> a fan of the keyway setup.? The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and >
the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to >
something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with >
maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the >
timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed.? The taper is where the >
power is transferred. > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances
on the angle.? The hub > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a
two-hour chore by hand. > > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The
crank and bearing are sold > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an
existing crank is iffy.? I've > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank
still spun, then when I torqued > it to 14 the crank seized.? No amount of
refitting cured that one.???I'm not > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH
threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH > threads, which can be torqued higher for a
better connection. Otherwise, a > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop,
despite proper torque and > Loctite 620 on the bolt? threads. > > If the
crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without > a 20 ton
press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the > next seals
work better.? My luck with those seals has not been good either. > That's the
only place my engine has lost oil. ------------------------------ Message:
3 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:04:57 -0400 From: Dj Merrill To: KRnet Subject:
Re: KR> Revmaster R3000 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=windows-1252 On 06/22/2016 10:14 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote: >
wow, that R3000 is interesting! > >> >
https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5 That issue is from 2012.???What
ever happened with the R3000?? I don't see any mention of it on their website:
http://revmasteraviation.com/ -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/ Glastar Flyer
N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/ ------------------------------ Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:43 +0000 (UTC) From: Bill Jacobs To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines Message-ID: ???
<1799902062.374730.1466703883317.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 There are a couple of versions of an
additional front mounted bearing. It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than
air), etc. Go to flycorvair.net or Dan Wesemans Fly with? SPA. Or google
Corvallis 5th bearing.?Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. ? ? On Thursday, June
23, 2016 12:44 PM, Kayak Chris via KRnet wrote: Well this set of comments
would have me steer well clear of GPASC engine. Even if they are reliable when
properly mated and assembled, it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is
not very serviceable down the line. After all these years how can this not
been resolved? Presumably the revmaster solution is more certain in service and
serviceability. Having built one of these several times, I'm not > a fan of
the keyway setup.? The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and > the key is
provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to > something
way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with > maximum
material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the > timing mark
stays constant if the hub is removed.? The taper is where the > power is
transferred. > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the
angle.? The hub > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour
chore by hand. > > The hub/bearing clearance is not
