Mike,
Homework for me for this question was to see if other options behave this way in terms of "default", and I didn't get to that today.
The more reliable way is unset an option is through the API with CPLSetConfigOption(option_name, NULL).
Setting an empty string will *sometimes* have a similar effect, but I'm pretty sure there are some options where NULL vs empty string will lead to different behaviors.
Even -- http://www.spatialys.com My software is free, but my time generally not.
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