Not that I understood it all, but your two posts are my “Posts of the Year” 
nominees.

Just awesome...

Keep posting.

- Mark

Sent from my Fuel Cell powered iPhone

> On May 25, 2019, at 10:37 AM, Mr. Sharkey via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Glad you found it informative.
> 
> These motors are frequently called "forklift motors", probably because, well, 
> they were used in forklifts... Your Siemens controller is likely a "forklift 
> controller", assuming that the conversion company didn't design one from 
> scratch and have Siemens construct it (them). It might be possible to find 
> more information on that unit by haunting industrial material handling 
> equipment sites and forums.
> 
> It is possible that your controller also does some armature voltage control, 
> some sep-ex motor controller do, so that's something to keep in mind when I 
> go on about the armature having full battery voltage on it continuously 
> during operation. My controller is a dedicated design by EHV Systems 
> specifically for the SCT Rabbit vehicle, so obviously SCT didn't find 
> off-the-shelf controllers to be suitable in some way.
> 
> It might be possible to power the motor from 12 volts directly. You would 
> need to identify the field wiring and disconnect it from the controller 
> (label things first). On my motor the fields are powered by a cable running 
> in the flange on the output shaft end of the motor, on a length of SO-type 
> rubber cord. The fields draw only about 10 amperes at 120 volts, so not much 
> is needed in the way of heavy wiring. The low field current is also a reason 
> that the controller can be much simplified, no heavy current switching 
> devices.
> 
> The armature connection is two additional cables exiting the motor adjacent 
> to the field cable. The armature in my controller is limited to 275 amperes 
> at 120 volts. I don't know what the armature would draw at 12 volts, might 
> not be enough to draw much of a spark when connected. Because the motor has 
> poor locked-rotor torque, it will pull more current until it attains some 
> rotational speed. Idle current  at 120 volts is about 10 amperes. If it looks 
> like it is going to try and spin up, you might give it some manual assistance 
> to get past that stall problem at low voltage.
> 
> Do inspect the brushes, if you get the motor running with stuck-ish brushes, 
> you risk a burned commutator, particularly at higher voltage. I would check 
> the brushes and then move on to investigating the controller, the motor is 
> about the least likely reason that you get no response so far.
> Glad you found it informative.
> 
> These motors are frequently called "forklift motors", probably because, well, 
> they were used in forklifts... Your Siemens controller is likely a "forklift 
> controller", assuming that the conversion company didn't design one from 
> scratch and have Siemens construct it (them). It might be possible to find 
> more information on that unit by haunting industrial material handling 
> equipment sites and forums.
> 
> It is possible that your controller also does some armature voltage control, 
> some sep-ex motor controller do, so that's something to keep in mind when I 
> go on about the armature having full battery voltage on it continuously 
> during operation. My controller is a dedicated design by EHV Systems 
> specifically for the SCT Rabbit vehicle, so obviously SCT didn't find 
> off-the-shelf controllers to be suitable in some way.
> 
> It might be possible to power the motor from 12 volts directly. You would 
> need to identify the field wiring and disconnect it from the controller 
> (label things first). On my motor the fields are powered by a cable running 
> in the flange on the output shaft end of the motor, on a length of SO-type 
> rubber cord. The fields draw only about 10 amperes at 120 volts, so not much 
> is needed in the way of heavy wiring. The low field current is also a reason 
> that the controller can be much simplified, no heavy current switching 
> devices.
> 
> The armature connection is two additional cables exiting the motor adjacent 
> to the field cable. The armature in my controller is limited to 275 amperes 
> at 120 volts. I don't know what the armature would draw at 12 volts, might 
> not be enough to draw much of a spark when connected. Because the motor has 
> poor locked-rotor torque, it will pull more current until it attains some 
> rotational speed. Idle current  at 120 volts is about 10 amperes. If it looks 
> like it is going to try and spin up, you might give it some manual assistance 
> to get past that stall problem at low voltage.
> 
> Do inspect the brushes, if you get the motor running with stuck-ish brushes, 
> you risk a burned commutator, particularly at higher voltage. I would check 
> the brushes and then move on to investigating the controller, the motor is 
> about the least likely reason that you get no response so far.
> 
> If the van is limited to second gear, how is reverse accomplished? Shutting 
> down the motor to reverse it's rotation seems like a nightmare for an on-road 
> vehicle, would make parking a real hassle. Stop motor, reverse fields, 
> restart motor, repeat as necessary. Uhg.
> 
> If you get it running, you might want to consider changing the transmission 
> setup. I use all  four gears and reverse. 4th isn't useful until about 50 
> MPH, but a lot will depend on your final drive ratio. Don't some (all) of the 
> old VW vans have reduction gearing after the differential?
> 
> A link to my SCT Rabbit on the EV Album: http://evalbum.com/91
> 
> In particular, a PDF of the field and armature control circuitry in the SCT 
> controller, This will give a sense of how the motor expects to be supplied 
> with voltage:
> 
> http://web.archive.org/web/20111109035218/http://www.mrsharkey.com/SCT/field.pdf
> 
> At startup, K1 & K2 are energized, field gets full voltage (PWM is disabled 
> in controller card) the armature gets battery voltage through two paralleled 
> 3 ohm resistors and begins to rotate. When the controller determines that the 
> armature is spinning by monitoring the voltage, it pulls in K3, directly 
> connecting the armature to the batteries, and the PWM circuit (Darlington 
> transistor pair) is enabled to allow field weakening in response to 
> accelerator position. At this stage, the key can be released to the "run" 
> position. Shutdown is all relays de-energized.
> 
> Something to consider: It would be fairly easy to design and build a 
> substitute controller with an Arduino, some instrumentation-grade op-amps and 
> a couple hundred lines of code. The days of using TTL/CMOS discrete 
> components to build logic and control circuits is long past.
> 
> Overloaded yet?
> 
> At 08:50 AM 5/25/2019, you wrote:
> 
> 
>> Awesome, thanks so much for the information.  This is a great start towards
>> making this thing work.  When I was in college, one of my computer science
>> professors explained that the people in the factory put the magic smoke into
>> the electronic components, and it is our job not to let the magic smoke out.
>> I have taken this to heart when working on electric stuff like this which I
>> know very very little about.  Thus I am unwilling to just put voltage to a
>> component like the motor and see what happens.  Normally, when I go to work
>> on something I have a massive technical library to draw upon, but in this
>> case, I am starting out in the dark and this has shined some light.
>> 
>> On the operational characteristics of this motor, by the field having full
>> voltage at stop (or just more voltage than the armature), it overpowers the
>> armature and creates drag buy forcing the system to generate electricity,
>> and when the armature has more voltage it uses the battery power to turn.
>> Is this correct?  Not that it necessarily helps in getting it running, but I
>> like to know how/why things function.
>> 
>> I turned the key on, and to the start position a couple times, but I got
>> nothing to indicate than any electrons were flowing anywhere in the system.
>> I figured that the start position was just a relic of a standard ignition
>> switch.  I did not have a 12v battery hooked up, which is likely one reason
>> things didn't work.  I had scavenged every easy to grab battery around the
>> shop, and I had 10 12v and 2 6v strung together in the battery tray, and
>> none left over for the vehicle.  I will scrounge up a couple more batteries
>> to make this work.
>> 
>> I tried to take the cover off the motor, but to didn't want to pop right
>> off.  I will play around with that some more.  The brushes are not stuck to
>> the armature, as I have made it turn manually, but I don't know that they
>> slide freely in their housings.
>> 
>> One thing that I read about this specific system is that it has regenerative
>> braking from 43mph down to 30mph, and another source said that it has
>> regenerative braking down to 0mph.  The top speed is 43mph.  Either way, it
>> is not all that important, as it works one way or the other.  The brake pads
>> show very little wear, but the vehicle only has 11,000 miles on it.  An
>> interesting thing with it is that there is no vacuum brake booster like is
>> seen on every other VW with disc brakes.  That makes more sense with the
>> regenerative braking.
>> 
>> I will play around with this more next week and report back on my progress.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Sent from: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/
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> 
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