Many times the dc to dc advertises peak current. Check the spec. It may do 50 
amp peak but on 30 amp continuous.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 26, 2018, at 9:44 PM, John Lussmyer via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I have my F-250 back on the road after some (long drawn out, time wasted) 
> repairs to a motor terminal, and rebuilding the transmission.
> (and exploding a contactor...)
> I'm getting some really WEIRD results with my DC-DC. (ok, power supply)
> It's capable of 50A output, and is set for about 14v output.
> 
> When I start the truck, it zooms up to around 50A for a few seconds (probably 
> trying to top off the weak 12V battery), then gradually drops down to 25A or 
> so for the trucks basic needs.  All this time the voltage sits at around 
> 13.9V.
> 
> Then I start driving, as I have the Zilla start pulling significant power - 
> the DC-DC output voltage drops, sometimes as low as 11v.  The REALLY REALLY 
> weird bit is that it's still only supplying 25-30A.
> If I take my foot off the pedal, the voltage shoots back up to 13.9v.
> 
> Right now, I'm assuming the (nearly dead) 12V battery is the main issue - but 
> shouldn't the DC-DC start pumping out more current when something is drawing 
> down the battery like that?
> 
> Also, since the Zilla doesn't actually use more 12V power, it makes no sense. 
>  The voltage drop does seem to be kind-of in proportion to how hard i'm 
> pressing on the accelerator pedal.
> 
> (I should also note that my Tach Sensor seems to be not working correctly, as 
> it's readding way low - and not fully consistent.  So probably having noise 
> problems on the signal or power lines.  Gonna try replacing the capacitors on 
> those.)
> 
> --
> Worlds only All Electric F-250 truck! 
> http://john.casadelgato.com/Electric-Vehicles/1995-Ford-F-250
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