On 30 Mar 2018 at 15:21, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:

> > Bed frames are nasty to work with.  Ever try driling them?
> 
> All the time! WhatTM the problem?

Maybe yours are different, but the steel bed frames I tried to drill years 
ago took a long time and dulled my drill bits.  They seemed to be made of 
some weird kind of hardened steel.  I finally gave up on them and bought 
angle iron from the hardware store (which IIRC was pretty darn pricey).

> 
> >> I plan to connect [the batteries] with 3/4" copper pipe
> > 
> > I'm not so sure you'll like that in the long run.
> 
> Care to explain?

A few potential problems exist.  

Copper and nickel makes a pretty decent primary cell.  So your bus bars will 
corrode quickly in the presence of the KOH electrolyte and other moisture.  

Saft's bus bars were nickel plated.  You'll probably also want to use nickel 
plated lugs for your battery connections.  

If you use rigid bus bars of any kind, you have to mount the batteries so 
thay absolutely cannot move relative to one another.  

Do you have the Saft STM5-180 tech manual?  It says, "The blocks must be 
mechanically supported and must not be able to move in any horizontal or 
vertical direction."

http://www.evdl.org/docs/STM5-180tech.pdf (pg 12)

In Saft's factory battery assemblies, the monoblocks were glued into their 
trays.

You would want to plate your pipe with nickel after flattening it, and mount 
the blocks as rigidly as Saft did.

BTW, don't forget to allow space along the monoblocks' long sides for forced 
air cooling.  This is also covered in the manual linked above.

An additional factor to consider is that the copper alloy used in water 
pipes isn't always the best conductor.  That may or may not matter in this 
application.

One thing more I just noticed:

> I cut the clutch spline out of the clutch, and have a TH-400 yoke to
> weld it to for the motor-tranny coupling. 

I may be misunderstanding what you're proposing here, and I'm far from an 
expert on these matters, but I get the impression that you really should 
have some kind of resilience in the motor coupler, to take the place of the 
springs in the clutch disk.  Have you allowed for that?  

Maybe someone else here can explain this better.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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