Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'd prefer to be able to remove the components from the heatsync in the future
if I ever need to replace them, so I'm avoiding any adhesive or solders.
Well, solders melt. If you can solder it on, you can unsolder it off. :-)
But I don't think I'd use ordinary solder for this. There are aluminum solders;
but it would be difficult to get the whole heatsink up to soldering temperature.
And if you did, it will take a long time to cool. The transistors and diodes
would be sitting for minutes at soldering temperatures. They normally don't like
to be at those temperatures for more than a few seconds.
But, a low-temperature solder that melts at 100-125 deg.C should work. They use
such solders to assemble solar cells, or hybrid modules with heat-sensitive
parts that don't like normal soldering heat. The trick will be finding one that
works with copper and aluminum.
Thinking out loud... I've seen heatsinks that were copper-plated, so they could
solder them to PC boards. Maybe the Curtis heatsink could be copper-plated. Then
you have a large variety of solders and fluxes that would easily solder to it.
My plan was to hit it with a bit of sand paper just before connecting. It sounds
like a lot of the electrical connectively may be coming from the screw that
holds the part to the heatsync (I imagine the threads develop enough pressure to
get through the oxide, even if the back of the parts do not.)
Yes; I think that is exactly what happens.
--
Anyone can make the simple complicated. Creativity is making the
complicated simple. -- Charles Mingus
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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