On 01/08/2017 01:50 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Ok, curiosity got to me and I decided to open up my failed Curtis 1231c.
The 8 screws on the bottom were only covered with two little rubber
plugs (no potting compound) which is different from what I'd read about
online. I removed them.
That means someone's been in there before.
I was wondering about that. It had a round "Warranty void if seal
broken" over the corner of the front "potting compound"
I then used a razer to cut all around the "front panel" potting compound
The potting compound is a rock-hard black solid. If you could cut it
with a razor blade, that also suggests someone was in there before, and
used something else to re-seal it. (For example, I use silicone rubber,
which is easy to cut).
It wasn't easy to cut, but I definitely was able to cut it. The stuff on
the terminal side looks the same as the side with the curtis nameplate
badge. Any chance that Curtis just changed their formula at some point?
After you remove the screws from the bottom, there are also plastic
bushings that need to be removed. These are basically a tube, with a
head like a washer.
I got all the plastic bushings removed with no problems using a
"grabber" type tool (expanded the prongs inside the bushings and pulled
them right out).
You don't have to remove the blank plate at the far end. Once you've
removed the 8 bottom screws and plastic bushings, just pull on the
terminals and the "guts" will slide out.
I got it, thanks.
If the potting compound on the terminal end is still bonded to the case
in places, you may have to heat the case to soften it. Also, you can
slide a bolt through two of the terminals, and use a claw hammer or
crowbar to pry them up to get it started. (This is also how you break
free any plastic bushings that you can't get out).
Now I'm working on getting the potting compound away from the
motor/battery terminals and the 3 connectors for the logic board.
The inside looks "stock" as far as I can tell (and luckily no large
black marks) but I have already identified one trace on the logic board
that was zapped by high current close to where it comes in from the
power boards.
I'll post photos after I get things dissembled further.
Jay
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