Hello Jay,

I have been using a 1000 amp at 300 volt rating motor controller from Café 
Electric for over 15 years.  You can purchase them Directly from Café 
Electric.com who also makes them.  Can be interface with any BMS.


Back in year 2000, my EV weigh 7050 lbs with ninety 300 ah two volt cells.  
Drove two miles uphill every day to work at 55 to 65 mph drawing up to 800 amps 
holding the voltage drop to 12 volts from a no load battery voltage of 192 
volts.


Doing this drive for 10 years, I cook the motor enamel to a dark brown.  No 
problem with the controller and had the 11 inch GE motor which is the same 
frame as a Net Gain Warp 11 motor re-enamel,  Still using this controller today 
on 226 volt 200 ah Li-Poly battery packs with the same EV that now weighs 5500 
lbs.


My motor amps is now about 200 amps and the battery amps normally between 50 
and 100 amps.


This controller also have a motor ampere output  call AMPS ON TACK.  Just use a 
tachometer to read the motor ampere which I think is important.   The motor 
ampere is always higher then the battery amp.


Roland


________________________________
From: EV <[email protected]> on behalf of Jay Summet via EV 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 11:56 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] Blew my Curtis 1231C Controller - repair procedures?

For those of you following the drama:

A few days ago my main HV fuse blew.

I used a lightbulb to test the Curtis 1231C controller and it was able
to control the bulb when I pressed on the throttle, so I thought it
might be a problem with my motor or wires. After I checked out the motor
and wires and everything appeared OK, I put a new fuse in and gave the
truck a test drive after I was able to spin the motor in neutral just fine.

Everything was fine at low speeds and current (100A or less) but as soon
as I tried to accelerate to 25-35 mph speeds I noticed that my motor was
only getting 300 amps max. In the past I've had it peg my 500 amp meter
under heavy acceleration.

  (This is the point I probably should have let up on the throttle ;>)

After holding the throttle down for about 5 seconds longer than I should
have, the controller failed completely and I was no longer able to get
any current to the motor. (But I had built up enough speed to coast back
home....)

My guess:
When my HV fuse blew the first time, it was because one or more of the
IBGT's in the controller had fried (shorted I assume, blowing the fuse).

At some point later, they became "un-shorted" and the remaining
controllers were able to drive the lightbulb and even my motor at low
current draws, but when I tried to use the vehicle at street speeds they
became overwhelmed and then also blew. (At least they did not take out
my replacement fuse this time....)

I assume it may be possible to repair the controller by replacing just
the IGBT's if nothing else was fried?

Any pointers on repair procedures?

(I'm also in the market for a replacement controller, see my other
email...I'm thinking of attempting the repair mostly to have a spare and
for the experience...)

Thanks,
Jay
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