Hi Lee,

I don't think that is how in rush current limiters work.  I use them to protect 
my DC-DC converter caps so they don't get whacked with a high in rush current 
when the connection is first made.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current_limiter

Mike

On June 5, 2016 10:19:55 PM MDT, Lee Hart via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
>Mike Nickerson via EV wrote:
>> If the long term current draw will be less than 10A or so, you could
>use an in rush limiting resistor.  That is a resistor with a negative
>temperature coefficient.  When cool, they have a very high resistance. 
>As they heat up, their resistance drops.
>
>This is probably the opposite of the function Gary wants. Inrush 
>limiters have a very LOW resistance initially, so the peak current when
>
>you first connect the batteries is very high. As the inrush limiter 
>heats up, its resistance rises -- so you wind up with quite a limited 
>amount of current between them.
>
>Gary Krysztopik wrote:
>>> Does anyone have any cheap tricks for regularly connecting two large
>12
>>> vdc packs together (one stationary and one mobile) and limiting
>inrush
>>> current when they are at different SOC?  They both have huge current
>>> capability but I need it for energy vs power so one has small wires
>and
>>> fuses.
>
>The "cheap trick" is to connect a light bulb between them. Pick the
>bulb 
>so your normal current is well below what the bulb normally draws on 
>12v. For example, a #57 brake light draws about an amp, and a headlight
>
>about 4 amps, and a halogen spotlight around 10 amps.
>
>The bulb won't allow more than its normal rated current to flow between
>
>the batteries. If you try, it just lights up. But when the current is 
>less than this (such as while on standby), the bulb's resistance is
>LOW. 
>The bulb is out, and the two batteries are essentially connected in 
>parallel for float charging, etc.

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