Hello Ted,
It sounds like it could be the motor bearings and/or the motor coupler. It is
best every ten years, to remove the motor and the rotor from the motor. Make
sure when you slid out the rotor, to keep track and orientation of the spring
washers that pressing against the bearings and bearing face.
Put the rotor on a wood mount on a bench, so you can rotate the bearings by
hand with out the rotor moving around. After about 10 years, you can feel a
roughness of the spin.
Anyway, it's a good practice to replace the bearings about every ten years.
Measure the diameter of the bearing and go to a auto parts store to get a
bearing splitter to fit that size bearing. Its like a wheel puller, except it
has a large flat beveled plates that the edge can slip behind the bearing.
After you remove the bearing, take them to a bearing shop or to a motor shop
for a replacement. There are different grade of bearings. These motor
bearings should be a permanent type motor bearing.
The bearing shop or motor people can verify what shape these bearings are in by
giving a hand spin test.
At the same time take the rotor and the motor coupler to the motor shop and ask
them to check the condition of the commentator and the input and output shaft
drives. What happen to my taper lock motor coupler one time, is that the taper
lock bushing crack which cause a mechanical noise at a certain rpm.
It is best at this time, to have the commentator electrical tested, hot dip
into motor enamel, turn and undercut. Have the motor end shafts true up. Also
have the rotor test balance with the motor coupler on the motor shaft.
It is important that the commentator is coated with motor enamel, so that the
segment grooves are insulated, which prevent brush dust from tracking between
the commentator bars. The motor shop will then turn and surface the
commentator at this time.
Check the condition of the brushes, the length left from the original length.
Estimate how many years you can get out of these brushes before replacement or
replace the brushes if needed.
Pick up a can of motor spray cleaner to clean the fields and housing of the
motor. The last time I did this maintenance, I also pick up a can of motor
spray enamel that I used to recoat the entire surfaces of the interior of the
motor housing, end bells, and even on the front of the commentator up to the
edge of the bearing surfaces.
This prevents brush dust tracking onto the motor shaft to ground. After
assembling the motor, take a ohm reading from all the motor terminals to the
motor case. This should read up to 20 meg ohms. As the motor ages, this
reading will reduce into the k ohms. If the ohms reading go's below 30 k ohms,
then its time to do this maintenance.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted Lowe, FVEAA via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 9:33 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Damaged ADC FB1-4001A Motor
Hi EVers,
i have a 1992 S-10 conversion i've been driving for 14 years. It has an
ADC FB1-4001A 9" motor.
Last year i made a mistake and over-spun the motor with the clutch
activated. The motor made a big nasty mechanical sound and i thought i
would be walking home from there. But the motor still works as long as
i keep the RPMs down (perhaps below 2000). If i go above that RPM,
the banging sound happen again. i realize i'm driving 'on borrowed
time' and want to get the motor fixed/rebuilt.
So my questions are:
1) What is likely damaged inside?
2) What would be involved in getting it repaired?
3) What kind of parts and costs are likely involved?
4) Can this be a DIY project for a handy person?
Thank you!
Kind regards,
ted
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