My EV now weighs 5500 lbs with the Nissan Li Ion Graphite battery pack with a maximum voltage of 226.6 volts at 199.9 ampere hour. This is the same maximum voltage I had with the U.S. Battery pack.
Use 3.5 times the number of modules than in a Nissan pack. 81 modules with 4 cells per modules. The motor is a WarP-11, the motor controller is a Café Electric Z1K and the battery charger is a PFC-50B 12.5K. Using a Orion BMS and Z1K that limits the maximum voltage to 214 volts as recommended for my type of driving and long life. This is about 4.0 volts per cell on a 4.2 volt maximum rating. I tested out the single gear ratio theory by selecting a overall gear ratio of 10:1 which is actually 9.99:1. Staying in this same ratio all the time is fine if I only drive on dead level grades. The battery ampere at 45 mph is about 50 amperes and the motor ampere is 150 ampere. Compare to the lead batteries at 75 battery ampere and 200 motor ampere. At 55 mph, I can shift into a overall gear ratio of 5.57:1, which allows 200 motor ampere and 75 battery ampere. Climbing steep grades at 25 mph maximum, I can still maintain 150 motor ampere and 50 battery ampere. If I am park on a street with a uphill grade, the 10:1 gear ratio will result in about 600 motor ampere and 200 battery ampere when I start to move up hill. To prevent this high ampere surge, I select the 27:1 overall gear ratio to start moving, which results in about 200 motor ampere and 75 battery ampere. In hill climbing: The EV gets up to 10 mph in this 27:1 overall gear ratio, I than select the 16:1 gear which keeps the motor ampere at 200 amps and battery ampere at 75 amps. If I select the 10:1 gear at 35 mph, then the motor ampere will increase to 300 motor ampere and 100 battery ampere. I find that the single gear theory will not work for me in these conditions. I also noted that the ampere hour of the Li Ion batteries lags a lot more than the lead batteries, causing a longer time to charge then the lead batteries. If I only drive 6 miles and using about 14 ah on a level grade with no stops at 35 mph. The minute I turn on my PFC-50B charger, the maximum voltage of 214 is reach in with 5 seconds! It takes another 30 minutes to replace the ampere hour that is remove while holding the voltage at 214 V. When the charger reaches the acceptance voltage of 214 V or 4.0 V per cell, it starts to taper to 0 volts. Instead of charging every day driving about 6 miles, I drove for 7 days using about 100 ah. The battery voltage only drop from 214 volts to 207 volts. It took about 150 minutes to charge the batteries at 48 ampere. There is 6 cells in parallel, so this is about 8 ampere per cell. It is also is recommended by the Onion BMS company, that is is best to not charge these type of batteries over 95% of the maximum rated voltage, and allow the battery charger to taper back the charge ampere before turning the charger off. It is recommended that the PFC-50B charger to have the current down before turning off the charger or this will damage the charger by the sudden surge. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: tomw via EV<mailto:[email protected]> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Feasibility: Converting a Subaru Sambar Micro Van toElectric? I should add that I assumed you would be satisfied with very slow acceleration. If not, you will require a larger motor with more torque. To give you a an idea of what is required...my car has about 1200 ft-lb torque at the wheels in first gear (about 90 ft-lb motor torque) and accelerates at 6 mph/sec in that gear. This would give a 0 to 60 mph time of 10 seconds, but of course the car won't go nearly that fast in first gear, speed is around 35 mph with the motor at 7500 rpm. I don't drive at that speed in first gear because it is hard on the transmission, and also note that max rpm for a 8 or 9" series DC motor is about 5500 rpm (mine is AC). In addition to a larger motor for direct drive, you would have to put a lot of current through it to get more torque, so would require something like a Zilla motor controller which gives 1000A. Even then a 9" motor with Zilla will give around 240 ft-lb motor torque I think, which would give about a fifth the wheel torque my car has in first gear, so if used in a vehicle the weight of my car would give about a fifth the acceleration rate. You would do much better acceleration-wise if you could add a fixed ratio gear box, or a manual transmission from another vehicle. -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Feasibility-Converting-a-Subaru-Sambar-Micro-Van-to-Electric-tp4673884p4673893.html<http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Feasibility-Converting-a-Subaru-Sambar-Micro-Van-to-Electric-tp4673884p4673893.html> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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