This shut down of the main charger is exactly what I have been doing for over
ten years for the flooded batteries and will be use for the Li-Ion batteries.
I am using a on board 12 volt smart charger design for a deep cycle battery.
It also is a 13.3 volt maintainer while the DC-DC converters are off line.
In my control panel, there is a turn on sequence of switches from left to right
to turn on the charger.
Switch 1. Turns on the AC input power by a AC contactor control by 12 volts.
A Ground Fault Detection Device also shuts down this AC
contactor
in case of a ground fault.
Switch 2. Turns on the battery box input and output fans to pre-purge the air.
Switch 3. Connects the DC output circuit from the battery charger to the
main batteries.
Why do this: Even with my PFC charger that is turn off and
when I
start to remove a battery line, there will be a spark cause by
the
capacitors in the charger.
Switch 4. The circuit breaker that turns on the main battery charger to the
batteries.
Modifications to the existing control switches using BMS.
Install another AC contactor in series with the existing AC contactor as a back
up if a contactor fails to go off.
Connect the BMS safety contactor off circuit controls to a relay to turn off
the 12 volt coils of the AC contactors.
Install a shut down switch between the 12 volt ignition switch circuit and BMS.
Install a switch to turn off the Always On 12 volt power to the BMS.
All the above switches may be a two position switch where in one position where
the BMS is control automatically by the BMS controller or in the other position
where it is control manually.
It is also prefer to have light indicator switches or install a LED to show
status of the circuits.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Cor van de Water via EV<mailto:[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2014 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 4 to 12 Cell Lithium BMS
Since this is used for charging - you might be able to cut the wire
from the contactor that feeds it from the aux battery and instead,
connect the power to the contactor coil from a small 12V supply powered
by the charging AC, so it only powers up when actually charging?
Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com<http://www.proxim.com/>
Email: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Private:
http://www.cvandewater.info<http://www.cvandewater.info/>
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626
-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Willie2 via EV
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2014 3:55 AM
To: Mike Nickerson; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 4 to 12 Cell Lithium BMS
On 09/16/2014 09:24 PM, Mike Nickerson via EV wrote:
> I have a Mini BMS system also. I suspect the contractor might be for
charging circuitry. I have the same issues with an SSR in my system.
>
> The Mini BMS is set up to terminate charging if necessary when a cell
is over voltage and the ignition system is off. It does this by turning
off the SSR or contactor on the AC line to the charger when it detects a
cell alert with the ignition off.
>
> When you turn on the ignition system, it re-arms the contactor back to
on, to prepare for the next charge cycle. The problem is that the
contactor stays on all the time the vehicle is parked. On my car, it
takes about 2 weeks to drain the auxiliary battery.
>
> I solve this by pulling the fuse to the EV control circuits which
includes power to the SSR. I've wondered if there is a better way too.
>
My Hyundai has been using an EVPower BMS controller all it's life.
EVPower cell modules have been replaced witn miniBMS modules. The
EVPower controller is a complete "ready to use" unit while the miniBMS
"head board" is just a starting point. The EVPower controller contains
a pack to 12v DC-DC which supplies a 20 amp SCR to switch charger input
current. To reduce demand on your starting battery, you might consider
a similar set up. The "universal voltage" wall warts are VERY
versatile. They operate on something like 85-250 volts, both AC and
DC. You can control your SCR off of the pack with the wall wart
between. The wall wart vampire load is much less significant to your
traction pack than to your starting battery.
I found some ~13.5v wall warts that I use to trickle charge starting
batteries from traction packs. As a backup to my "regular" DC-DCs.
Perhaps also of interest:
About three years ago I was dealing with how to control AC current to my
10kw charger (EMW). The 20amp SCR mentioned above wouldn't handle that
current. I tried a 40 amp SCR but it was getting too hot. AND SCRs
apparently fail "on". Certainly a potential disaster. I first had
Steve add in a heavy duty 240vac relay with a 120vac coil. That worked
well as long as I charged only at 240vac and not through a J1772. This
was discussed at length here at that time. I messed around a lot with
Lee Hart's idea of using a light bulb to get about the right voltage to
the coil but I never found the right light bulb. I finally used the SCR
(in the EVPower BMS controller) to switch AC current, either 120 or 240,
to some 12v wall warts. The wall warts now supply heavy duty relays
with 12vdc coils. That setup has worked well for about three years
switching about 12kw of charging.
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