Hello Ben, What I did was install all the accessories off a separated aluminum mounting accessories mounting plate that are use on some engines. It is design to mount a alternator, power steering, water pump, and A/C compressor. This unit is mounted about 8 inches in front of my motor. It is connected to the pilot shaft of the motor with a taper lock coupler. Double face mounted face bearings are mounted on the accessories plate which is 3/8 inch thick aluminum mounted to the frame with four donut engine mounts.
When you turn on the A/C control, this may or may not turn on the A/C compressor, because the A/C control relay may had shut down if the compressor oil is up to the high pressure limit. As the compressor oil pressure drops, then the compressor will start up again which engages the compressor clutch that is belted to the motor pilot shaft. I do not allow the compressor clutch to come on while my main motor is under power. I have a micro switch on the accelerator control which turns on 12 volt A/C compressor relay coil and a bank of relays to control the electric heaters, fans, and pumps. The relay than turns on a higher ampere 12 volt power to the clutch which connects the power belt to the compressor. Any of these accessories units are only on when the motor is not power and only when the EV is coasting down hill or to a stop. Something like regenerative power by using inertial. Use a 3 position switches on the dash, that is on-off-on. In one of the on positions, the accessories run automatic or the switch is mark AUTO. In the other on position, this allows you to bypass the accelerator micro switch 12 v power which returns it to the normal operation as in the original control cycle. If I am running up hill the relays are off and when I am going down hill, they are on. I run all my electric heating this way too. No problem heating the EV up to 80 F. when the ambient temperature is -33 below!! Roland T ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben Goren via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> To: Dennis Miles<mailto:dmiles33...@gmail.com> ; Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 7:48 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Hybrid Mustang: AC or DC? Thanks for the help with that math. I've thought about adding insulation for both thermal efficiency and road noise reduction, and I'll be getting a windshield reflector thingie today. I was at my shade-tree mechanic's yesterday, and he, too, was skeptical of using either electric system for A/C. But...I'm now wondering: are there heat pump systems rather than compressor units that might be more energy efficient? I mean, short of hanging an apartment A/C unit out the window.... Regardless, I think electrically-powered A/C may be lower on the priority list. The original impetus was to use it to cool the batteries...but I'm now leaning towards insulated battery boxes with Peltier coolers. I can probably use the car's steel frame for the hot side heat sink depending on where the boxes get mounted, and a computer CPU heatsink and fan assembly inside the box for circulation. -- and probably use multiple small coolers rather than a single large one. It'd still be nice to keep the vehicle interior below ambient when plugged in, especially this time of year...but that can be a luxury add-on down the road. b& On Aug 1, 2014, at 11:03 PM, Dennis Miles via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>> wrote: > On the other hand a friend in St Petersburg, FL. uses a 7,500 BTU ac in his > S-10 Pickup (About a 400 watt load) and runs it from a 1,000 Watt 110v. > inverter... Your 25000 to 30000 btu/hr are two to two and a half tons (Same > as HP or similar to Kw. ) and that is as much a a small house. I used a > 42,000 btu/hr a-cond to cool a 2,240 sq ft manufactured home in Florida, > and it ran 2/3 s of the time. And now I am using 7,500 btu to cool 900 sq > ft with better insulation... > > Dennis Lee Miles > > (*evprofes...@evprofessor.com<mailto:*evprofes...@evprofessor.com> <evprofes...@evprofessor.com<mailto:evprofes...@evprofessor.com>>)* > > * Founder: **EV Tech. Institute Inc.* > > *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913 (12 noon to 12 midnight Eastern US Time)* > > *Educating yourself, does not mean you were **stupid; it means, you are > intelligent enough, **to know, that there is plenty left to learn!* > > * You Tube Video link: http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss<http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss> > <http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss<http://youtu.be/T-FVjMRVLss>> * > > > On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 12:22 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV < > ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>> wrote: > >> On 1 Aug 2014 at 13:17, Ben Goren via EV wrote: >> >>> it probably also makes sense to get an air conditioner that runs [on] >>> the 12V system so it, too, can run when the car is plugged [in] ... >> >> I'm not so sure. I've read that a typical automotive aircon moves around >> 25000 to 30000 btu/hr. That can take a fair bit of power and energy. >> >> For example, I just found (online) a 24500 btu/hr LG room aircon that uses >> 12.7 amps at 230 volts (2.9kW assuming unity power factor). A comparably >> efficient unit running on 12.7 volts would require 230 amps. That's a >> pretty sizable long-term load for your 12v system. >> >> To look at it another way, you'd need twelve fully charged 90ah lithium >> cells to run that aircon for an hour. Even at 50% duty cycle, you'd still >> need eight 60ah cells. >> >> The energy usage isn't so much of a problem if you're just talking about >> cooling the car while it's parked and charging, though don't forget that >> any >> power the aircon uses isn't available for charging. However, you'd still >> have to have a pretty robust 12v system to power it. >> >> I think you'd be better off with an aircon powered by the main traction >> pack >> voltage. At least the current required would be more manageable. >> >> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA >> EVDL Administrator >> >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/<http://www.evdl.org/help/> >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not >> reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my >> email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/<http://www.evdl.org/help/> . >> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> >> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> >> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA ( >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140802/fb6f68fc/attachment.htm<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140802/fb6f68fc/attachment.htm>> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> > For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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