On 05/09/2016 09:08 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> So I guess my assumptions are fairly correct, eg turn it slow enough not
> to spew sparks, and don't force it.  The latter I am doing but at very
> low rates of feed, and motions that limit the rims contact with a wide
> area of the casting.  The only thing I found was a recommendation that
> when running dry, it be given a cooling rest to keep it from over
> heating and ablating the diamond away.  The cut it is currently doing is
> about 5/8ths done, and the block was up to about 110F while the rim of
> the saw was around 120F when as its late, I paused it and turned off the
> spindle after it had spun free at the end of the current pass. Tommorrow
> it will be back to room temp, low 70's F, and I don't think I should add
> any cooling pauses, given the minimal rise in temps I am seeing with my
> IR thermometer now, unless you folks think I should.  So sound off if
> you disagree.
>
>
Geez, why are you using a diamond blade on cast iron?  Do 
you need an insanely narrow kerf for some reason?  That's 
about the only reason I can imagine to do this.  Otherwise, 
an HSS slitting saw sounds like a much better way to go.  
(Maybe, if you can get one, an M42 or M57 saw blade would be 
better, as CI is pretty abrasive.)

I cut aluminum all the time with HSS slitting saws.  CI is 
not all that much harder to cut, but it will wear the saw 
faster.  I use flood coolant, slowed down to a dribble and 
am still on my first saw blades after quite a lot of 
slitting operations.

I've never heard of running diamond saws dry!  Seems like 
you need coolant or something just to keep the cut from 
filling with swarf and jamming.

Jon

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