Cast Iron is the better Gene ,
the larger in Dia you can manage the better , it helps spread the load over
the whol carrage rather than just the area of the toolpost
i have a similar block on mine which is only an 1 3/8 high x 3 , i should
have made it at least another inch or two in dia

the only fixing is the through bolt from the carrage , which i made as
close a sliding fit as possible.



On 25 April 2016 at 11:29, Gene Heskett <[email protected]> wrote:

> Greetings all;
>
> I may have found the source of some of my tool destroying chatter.
>
> I pulled the compound off this POS last night, and discovered that it was
> not sitting solidly, flat cast iron to flat cast iron at the mating
> faces, but was rocking on the corners of that screwed onto one bolt-on
> on the left face that has the angle markings on it.
>
> Its attached with flathead screws, and its either take it off, or lap it
> off.  I did the latter on a sheet of 600 wet-r-dry swimming in cutting
> oil on my granite flat.
>
> For me, since its function can be done by LCNC, it is nothing but a
> spacer 1.6" tall to hold the QC post. So I have considered replacing it
> with a round block of metal nominally 3" in diameter so it would sit
> solidly on the cross slider, be 1.6" thick so it would hold the QC post
> at a usable height.
>
> Having a massive weight there would make sense to me, so while I have a
> big block of aluminum, I haven't done it out of that as steel or cast
> iron would add mass which "should" reduce the chatter, plus alu will
> scratch and dent much easier from toolpost movements its not supposed to
> do but does. I also noted that the toolposts thru bolt, a 10mm stud,
> does not screw into the top of the compound slider more than about 3
> turns because its not tapped deep enough, and having stripped that
> thread in one slider already from trying to tighten the tool post to
> keep it from turning when I am deepening a center drilled starter hole
> with a drill bit, not in a chuck in the tailstock, but in chuck screwed
> onto round rod in a boring bar tool carrier which can easily beat the
> socks off using the poorly aligned tailstocks limited barrel travel for
> that.
>
> As there is surplus stud above the nut, that will get extended about 3
> turns of the tap, giving some much needed additional thread engagement
> so I can put a little more muscle on the wrench without stripping out
> the threads in the compound.
>
> But I want this compound gone as it limits the toolpost placement such
> that the tool tip is often beyond the puny footprint of the main
> carriage where cutting forces can and have on hundreds of occasions been
> more that sufficient to lift the right edge of the carriage off the bed
> by whatever clearance the gibs might allow, which tips the tool into the
> workpiece enough that the tool digs in and locks the spindle dead from
> several hundred revs in just 2 to 5 degrees of rotation. As you can
> imagine thats also broken drive parts up to and including a bent gear
> shaft in the backgear.  Because of this, I intend to bore the bolt hole
> for the toolpost about 3/4" off-center so that I can displace the
> toolpost to the right, pulling the tool tip back into a position where
> it has carriage enough under it to prevent this tipping even if the gib
> might allow a couple thou's motion.
>
> But I want a plain metal block, and will goto the re-cyclers place today
> looking for a starter piece to make this from.
>
> If one of you had a choice of a block of cast iron this 3" diameter, 1.6"
> thick piece could be carved out of, or a piece of bar steel of unk
> additives but likely 1065, both in the iron pile, which would you use?
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>
>
>
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