>Bruce:  I don't know how the system appears to be
behaving, but your 

>error
of 20 - 30 um on the trace looks about as good as you'll get with 

>those
scales. That's within 2-3 encoder counts of commanded position.

 

The
problems I guess I was hoping would go away is the dithering or 

oscillation
when the machine is at rest.

With
a P=.1 the axis drifts, at P=1 it seems to hold steady but the PID  

error
is terrible. P=11 the PID error is the smallest I can get, P=13 the

oscillation
about tears the machine apart.

Adjusting
anything else I can get the PID error tiny amounts better but the

oscillation
never seems to get better

 

I
would also like to get rid of the jerking it sometimes does when moving.

It
did not do this with the old controller

 

Here
are some halscope images of the dithering and jerking:

https://sites.google.com/site/bmklawt/home/pid-tuning

 

>His
encoder is BOUND to have a lot of positional quantization noise, as 

>it
is a 100 um resolution linear scale, which is equal to roughly .0004". 

.This
is the typical DRO-grade scale

 

I
just assumed with these scales I could machine a part to within .0004, 

and
that would be perfect, I may try some better encoders.

 

>>>Didn't
Anilam also use velocity tachs too

 

Yes
the servos use velocity

 

>Before
changing .INI values using HalScope Calibration, I recommend 

>modeling
your system first.  In other words
understand where you are 

>closing
your current, velocity, and position loops.

>My
PPMC system uses Yaskawa servo amps which close the current and 

>velocity
loop, leaving EMC2 to close the position loop (only P and FF1 

>are
non-zero in INI). This is known as a P/PI w/FF cascade control 

>because
its loops are >nested.

 

Well
this does seem to make some sense to me, I did tune the servos to 

Anilams
specs following this procedure, turning pots and checking 

resistance
at points 

 

https://sites.google.com/site/bmklawt/home/westamp-manual-tuning

 

But
the last thing it says to do is adjust the SIG pot to stop the servo 

from
drifting, I could not get it to completely stop.

There
is more in depth tuning but it uses an oscilloscope and I don’t have 

one
nor would I even know how to use it.

 

Adjusting
D doesn’t do much.

 

Jon
has said this may be as good as it gets, I'll have to cut some parts and 

see

what
it can do.

 

Thanks
all for the information.

My
build https://sites.google.com/site/bmklawt/home

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