Gene,

Are you happy with the MM-542 stepper drivers?

Dave


> To stick my oar in this water, I agree.  Concise is nice, but when there
> are considerable variables to fine tune, the newbee can easily get lost,
> blinded by the seemingly endless joint errors.
>
> For instance, I just switched from a 4 axis xylotex card to a 4 pack of
> MM-542's.  The xylotex don't do reduced currents when stopped, but the
> MM-542's can be set to drop to 50% current when idle.  I found I had to
> reduce my MAX_ACCEL's about 30% all around, while maintaining a healthy
> headroom cushion of over 30% between the TRAJ settings (slower) and the
> AXIS settings (faster) in order to get rid of the stalls on reverse
> direction startups after an idle period.
>
> I came to the conclusion that the ramp back to full current was taking more
> than a step, and of course if the first step is missed, a stall is going to
> happen.  So I had to slow down the accels as if the motors weren't getting
> full power.  This was based on the fact that I could tap the keys after an
> idle period for a half second and get a stall, but a quickly repeated tap
> always ran normally regardless of which direction the tap was.  On a per
> axis basis.  Moving a different axis was a cold start and stall.
>
> I also found that microstepping at 16x ran much quieter but gave more joint
> errors compared to 8x, but again, reducing the ACCEL's fixed that.  I can
> now run the logo in nearly the same time, and no joint errors are
> encountered at 150% feed rate of 22.5 IPM (same as before) so the slowdowns
> didn't seem to seriously hurt that.
>
> But the docs need to explain this in more detail for the newbee just
> bringing a machine to life for the first time.  And it should include a
> sentence or so about drivers that do reduced idle currents and their effect
> on MAX_ACCEL headroom.
>
> I don't think I will turn the reduced current feature off as the motors
> reduced temps can be easily felt.
>
> As the driver enclosure is largely sealed (its heavy 1/8" and 3/16" alu
> plate) the heat buildup there is going to need a larger, say 8", fan
> blowing on the box to maintain a safe temp inside the box, but this should
> suffice for cooling as there is a big 120 volt, ball bearing "rotron" fan
> circulating the air within the box to encourage the heat transfer to the
> box panels, so the whole box gets warm without noticeable hot spots.  At 2
> hours uptime, I'd guess 15F above ambient without the exterior fan.
>
> Cheers, gene
>    


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