On Thursday 19 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
>I would be concerned about having a very fine needle sticking out. It
>would be very vulnerable. I have no problems with a piece of 1/16" OD
>tube and a needle valve. You are going to need a needle valve anyway
>because some jobs need more oil than others.
>
>Les

Without a doubt.  The so-called needle valve I got from Lowes didn't want to 
shut off, so I took it apart to discover there was nothing needle about it.  
The reason it wouldn't turn off is that the threads in the body weren't 
tapped deep enough, and I had to force it the last half turn to actually get 
to a seated condition.  ATM it is open maybe 2 degrees from screwed down 
tight, so the oil is just sort of seeping through it and that seems to be 
more than enough to keep the mill and work wet.

I also thought of soldering it shut, then using the needle to bore a hole in 
the solder, then glue the needle into the bored hole.  Cut it off a sixteenth 
proud & polish that to just proud of the solder should work.  The needle 
itself is only 3/8" long once pulled from the plastic.  However, if I could 
find a _real_ needle valve that would be even better.  All I need is a good 
method of adjusting the flow anyway, which this valve sure as heck isn't.
10 degrees off the seat and its effectively wide open.

-- 
Cheers, Gene
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The NRA is offering FREE Associate memberships to anyone who wants them.
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<dark> "Hey, I'm from this project called Debian... have you heard of it?
       Your name seems to be on a bunch of our stuff."

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