On Sat, 2008-06-14 at 23:55 -0500, phil wrote: > Ive seen shops using plaster of paris to do exactly what your wanting. > its a bit more stable then > wax can be, and it may end up being less expensive. As far as removal, I > think the stuff will pretty much crumble, you could even mold in some > holding method, who knows, just tossing it out there. good luck. > pardon in advance if I posted to the wrong section of this topic. > > Ian W. Wright wrote: > > Hi Kirk, > > > > I often temporarily stick parts I'm working on to a sacrificial piece of > > metal. Of course, with the small size of the parts I'm making, having a > > bigger 'handle' or something to clamp in the vise is the only way I can > > work on the pieces. I usually use shellac as an adhesive or, more often > > if I intend to do a lot of work on a piece, Cyanoacrylate (superglue). > > There are a number of grades of Cyanoacrylate, some gap filling, some > > not, and they all have one thing in common - they will release if you > > heat them a bit - just too hot to handle comfortably. the residue can > > then be wiped off with a bit of acetone. Before you use this stuff, you > > do need to clean the metal well with acetone or a proprietary cyano prep > > spray (if you use acetone it has to be plain acetone from the chemist, > > nail polish remover won't work as it has oils in it.) For anything > > needing a really good hold you can even use epoxy as most of these will > > also release with a bit of heat. I actually find that the cyanoacrylate > > glue I get from our 'Pound stores' - presumably your 'Dollar stores' - > > where I get 5 little plastic bottles of a very fluid glue on a card for > > 1UKP, is actually the best I have used!
I've tried Superglue and hotmelt. Both held the part passed the machining process. It seemed to take more heat to remove the part from the Superglue and my local hardware store didn't have acetone, so I wasn't able to clean the Superglue from the part or fixture. The hotmelt released the part with moderate heat and was easily cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Other cleaners may work, but the carburetor cleaner was in arms reach. Both seemed to form a thick bonding layer that can vary in thickness. If parts need to be very flat, the Mitee-grip product may be a better choice. -- Kirk Wallace (California, USA http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/ Hardinge HNC/EMC CNC lathe, Bridgeport mill conversion, doing XY now, Zubal lathe conversion pending Craftsman AA 109 restoration Shizuoka ST-N/EMC CNC) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sponsored by: SourceForge.net Community Choice Awards: VOTE NOW! Studies have shown that voting for your favorite open source project, along with a healthy diet, reduces your potential for chronic lameness and boredom. Vote Now at http://www.sourceforge.net/community/cca08 _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
