I use a reel with 6 lb line and a wrist rocket from Walmart with a lead
fishing weight. Lay the reel on the ground and shoot the weight over the top
of the tree. I try to avoid large limbs. You want the line over the soft
bushy limbs. They act as a spring or shock absorber. Use the line to pull up
some nylon twine then use the twine to pull up your rope. The wind can blow
all it wants and those soft limbs act like a nice cushion. I've even been
know to run insulated antenna wire right through a tree with no ill effects
on the HF bands.
Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Tyrrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees
The ARRL Antenna Book suggests using a pulley and counter weight to allow
for the varying distances between trees caused by wind. At my former QTH,
Ellijay GA, I noticed that in very gusty conditions sometimes the support
trees moved in opposite directions at the same time. I decided to make my
counterweight out of an eight foot length of 5/16" chain. Put about a
third of the length of the chain on the ground during no wind conditions.
Now as the wind moves the trees more of less of the chain gets lifted off
the ground. This gives a gradual increment in the weight of the
counterweight. The antenna that I had up was 88' of #18 insulatd wire up
40', center fed with 450 Ohm line.
With this antenna I got into ECN on 40 and 20 using the K1 just about
every time I tried. (Kevin, wish I could find a place for this type of
antenna where I now live.)
I was concerned about the sudden change of weight caused by a solid one
piece weight hitting the ground or lifted off the ground. With one third
of the chain on the ground the weight does not swing in the breeze.
73, Ty, W1TF, K1 #1423, K3 #696
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