Hi Ken,

I'm an avid contester with my K2s (as are several
others) and I use them with N1MM. 

"RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never
felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less).  Not
exactly a complaint (it's probably just me) but to me
the RIT control takes up a lot of real estate on a
cramped front panel.  Make the RIT control an encoder
(if it isn’t already) and then you can have it do any
number of other cool adjustments at the press of a
button (I’d put the keyer speed control on there if it
was me and make some room on the front panel)."

I'd disagree with this. RIT is a must, too many folks
call off freq as they slide up and down the band. I
set my RIT high or low, so I can switch it in and out
quick to copy folks better. XIT is great as some of
the tough ones tend to work split during a contest
(thank you!!!) Some folks prefer VFO B to do these
operations, but I like being able to click the RIT/XIT
buttons on N1MM to get there quick. 

"AF Gain/RF Gain/Speed/Power Controls - Way too close
together.  I found the best way to use them was to
push directly on the end of the knob with my fingertip
and turn it that way, rather than trying to grasp the
knob.  How about putting AF/RF Gain to the left of the
tuning knob and Speed & Power to the right?  (also see
the above RIT comment)"

Crank the AF control to MAX and use the RF as "volume"
control, only need to turn one of them...

"Display - OK, as far as it goes.  I'd take out the
bargraph S-Meter and expand the LCD display to fill
the space.  Use a dot matrix LCD and run a bargraph
S-meter along the bottom of the LCD display.  A dot
matrix LCD gives you tons of flexibility to show
additional information, like the status of many of the
controls such as DSP (if installed) and filter
selections."

I can tell what filter position I'm in by ear. Haven't
used DSP yet. Nobody seems to give a "real" signal
report any more any way, definitely not in the
contests. In fact, most log checkers don't even look
at the signal reports in a submitted log. I'd rather
see a meter myself, but then I'd be dating myself as
well ;o)

"Tune Button – How about making it so that hitting
Tune
automatically reduces transmitter output to just a few
watts for the tune operation, then returns the K2 back
to it’s previously set output when tuning is
complete?"

It reduces it to 20W (if you have the KPA100) and then
goes back to whatever power you have set. I think in
QRP it reduces to 2 watts (don't recall) and then
returns to the set power from tune.

I use WinKeyer USB by K1EL. For us kit addicts it's a
fun build. Had a little problem loading the drivers,
mostly because I didn't comprehend the variations
between O/S and loaded the wrong drivers first (big
mistake!) Definitely need to pay close attention to
the instructions hihi. 

Hope to log you in some of the upcoming 2007 contests.
Good luck!

73,
Julius
n2wn  
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