I have a small solder pot, and have had a hard time tinning with it.  I'm sure 
the problem lies with the user (me) and not with the pot!

I originally used solder from a roll (with flux) as Rick says, but it became so 
much of a mess that I purchased a rod of solder (I guess it weighs a pound or 
so) and as the solder in the pot gets low, I stick the end of the rod into the 
hot pot and melt enough off to fill the pot back up.  

Can someone let me know if this the correct type of solder to use?

My problem seem to be getting the right temperature for tinning.  If I don't 
set it hot enough it doesn't seem to melt the enamel from the toroid wire.  On 
the other hand if I set it too high, the wire itself actually melts and I have 
to rewind the toroid.  (My solder pot doesn't have a thermometer, so I can't 
tell you what temperature I am working with.)

I'd be interested in hearing more from Rick and anyone else using a aolder pot.

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103 
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder 
> pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the 
> solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and 
> debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much 
> flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on 
> the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be 
> removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, 
> this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything 
> much less and it won't tin properly.
>  
> Thanks -- Rick
> 
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