I still get that (harmless) string of warnings to use conntrack instead of the 
current, obsolete "state match." I have conntract installed. So how do I use 
it?

There is actually an nf_conntract I can see in dmesg:
[   67.093395] nf_conntrack version 0.5.0 (16384 buckets, 65536 max)

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