The problem is a mismatch between where metacity stores the schema file and where gnome-theme-manager looks for it. The file is stored as /etc/gconf/schemas/metacity.schemas but gnome-theme-manager is trying to open the file /etc/gconf/schemas/apps_metacity.schemas. I didn't know which was the right location, so I just made a hard link between the two filenames. Problem solved, for me at least. The real solution is for someone to figure out whether capplets or metacity needs to be fixed.
David
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