A more minimal non-working example:
[
\documentclass{article}
\usepackage{fontspec}
\setmainfont{CMU Serif}
%\setmainfont{cmunrm.otf}
\begin{document}
А
\end{document}
]
If you comment the first \setmainfont line and uncomment the second one, the
file compiles. Rerunning /usr/bin/texlive-enable-fontconfig doesn't help.
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