I had a similar problem trying to remove the coupling on my LF38 and I even had the benefit of good access to the coupling since it is a v-drive. Fluids, heat, gear puller were not successful. After 2 days of work I decided to cut if off which took only 20 minutes. I already had a new prop shaft and ordered a new coupling too – as Nathan suggested I recommend a split coupling ( I ordered one made by R&D ) – so wasn’t trying to save it in any case.
I would suggest even if you are successful in getting it off that you purchase a new coupling if there any corrosion on the inside surface. A standard coupling is not hugely expensive. The interference fitting is pretty impressive – with the new shaft and new split coupling sliding it on by hand was easy but I had to use the gear puller to ease if off again. Similarly the face of the coupling vacuumed itself to the transmission flange while aligning the shaft and had to knock if off with a rubber hammer. Ed Vanderkruk Prime Interest LF38 – 1982 Toronto, Canada From: Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2024 11:19 PM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: keith morgenstern <mrgns...@hotmail.com>; CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net>; Riley Anderson <svfreighttr...@gmail.com>; Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the spilt type coupler if you get a replacement made.
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