Hey all Atomic 4 owners, I have a problem with my reversing gear adjustment. I have just dropped in the engine after oil pump work and reinstalled.
The reverse was never great, and I attributed that to the feathering prop but it is now slightly worse and I'm force to adjust. I adjusted the reversing gear band with approximately 20 adjustments over the last 2 days to achieve what I have now, which is the best possible adjustment I could find, and it is still not great, nor usable. If you're familiar with the adjusting nut, the nut has 6 sides. Each adjustment of the nut moves to the next flat so the spring can land flat on the nut, holding it in place from further turning. Each turn is 1/6 of a 360 degress or 60 degree each ( 16.6% of a full turn). This is the flat spot for each minimum sustainable adjustment. For me, the best adjustment is in-between these flat spots. It has the spring holding the adjusting nut, not flat on a side, but just offset of the nut knuckle (just over half way between the 2 flats, about 6% and 10% turn respectively off the last flat). Its not a sustainable position and will likely and easily fall off to the nearest flat side in time. At this position, the best it provides is a good forward, the absolute smallest of smallest neutral window and the reverse is still almost non-existing. The reverse spins slightly but not fast and doesn't increase much when revving the engine. There is definitely no whine in the reverse as you should hear when fulling engaged. If you have an atomic 4 you all know what I mean. If I tighten the adjusting nut to the nearest flat side of the nut, the clamp band tightens too much and the neutral window is gone, the reverse is strong but it is over-riding the forward and although I have good reverse and a whine with good motion, forward shifting does results in a stall as the reverse and forward override each other. Moving the adjustment nut to the nearest loosen flat, enlarged the neutral window but eliminates the reverse movement entirely. I spoke with Ken at Moyer today and he suggested to remove the shaft/prop from the equation by temporarily disconnecting it as it is not likely, but might be a possible a cause to the problem. If that is not the problem, he has no solution except to say, there is a piece to the puzzle missing. There is a pad under the band that is like a brake drum pad but in the 50 years doing this, they have never seen one wear, a couple pads crack but they still worked fine. He said they could sell me a new reversing gear but won't do that as he suggests there is nothing wrong with my reversing gear..just a piece to the puzzle missing. I have not clue how to fix this and not sure what to do next. Any suggestions from anyone..or do you have a contact that might be able to assist. Paul Hood REFUGE - 1981 C&C34 on Georgian Bay /)
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