What a tale of woe. Replacement best. Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> ________________________________ From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2023 7:22:20 PM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net> Subject: Stus-List Re: Chuck's Exhaust Elbow
Hi David, In my case, The exhaust was working fine, no leaks. But I had to remove it to get the bell housing off to access the transmission bolts to remove the transmission which was slipping. The transmission is being rebuilt by a pro. The exhaust riser had some questionable looking fittings that were original and I wanted to replace what I could while waiting for the transmission. The water injector elbow was a street elbow and missing some meat where the hose gets clamped on. It should be a barb fitting and it must have been installed before the flange was screwed on, so the flange needed to be removed to remove the injector elbow. I put it in a vice and soaked it in PB Blaster for a week, spraying the joints every day, and then tried a pipe wrench on the flange. It turned easily but the 1 1/4" nipple sheared right off leaving some portion of threads inside the flange neck. We had to cut the part of the nipple in the riser using a sawzall and chisel it in on itself making a spiral we turned using a couple large pliers. We were going to do the same for the barb fitting but instead tried to heat the casting and use a pipe wrench to turn it. Since we had three guys, one held the torch while I had the pipe wrench, and the third guy tapped the casting with a ballpeen hammer. Before the barb fitting turned, the casting cracked where it was thinnest. Oh shit. The most experienced guy tried to braze the crack but it just opened up more and more. Where the casting cracked was right below the hex molded into it. We discussed our problem and re-evaluated what we did and methods used and all agreed we did things right. The casting was paper thin at the crack and it was a blessing to find this now instead of it eroding through and failing at sea. Or you could say I should have left it alone and not messed with it. I could get a pipe nipple welded on the flange and I could fix the crack in the riser using an epoxy, but I chose to order new parts. My Barr riser was aluminum and I found it available online. The iron version is cheaper but out of stock. A new flange costs about the same as what a welder would charge to add a nipple to the old one. I looked at SS models but they look like they may not fit in my engine box, so I will replace with the same parts and the new exhaust should last longer than the engine. Chuck On 07/16/2023 9:01 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hi chuck. What made you decide to replace it? Problems or trying to prevent them? Dave Sent from my iPhone
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