I can't remember exactly how they look, but it seems there was maybe a 5/16" SS Hinge pin - I would drill it out with a good quality Cobalt drill, probably 1/8" then a step up, decided by how well you have the pilot hole centered. Use a good quality lubricant, something with chlorine, or what we use here for SS is Anchorlube G771
It looks like Practical Sailor agrees with you on the pins - https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/offshore-log-in-use-report-atkins-hoyle-deck-hatches Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 9:33 AM John Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion. Tried to remove > heat etc no luck > > > > John Read > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM > *To:* Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* Bill Coleman <colt...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 3M 4200 > > > > My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If > it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid > and have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in? > > Bill Coleman > > > > On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch. Issue is it > is bedded to hull with 3M 4200. Any suggestions on how to break that seal? > > > > John Read > > Legacy III > > 1982 C&C 34 > > Noank, CT > > > >
