Joe,
Yes, we're talking about just the small bolt forward. I think you could
do this without taking the mast step out, bit tight but there's no
connection between the bolt/wood and the step. You could just use glass
cloth, but I wanted the thickness of the fiberglass board, particularly
the vertical part. Are you having issues with the wood compressing?
That's what triggered my repair job.
My guess is that it's (the forward bolt) an afterthought, as I indicated
the plan I have for the 35-1 doesn't even show it, only the six bigger
ones aft. I'll try to scan/post the drawing to show you what I mean.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/25/2022 3:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹
The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a
hammer and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new
one won’t come out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am
not sure if I have this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around
the mast step. The first problem will be the 49 years of old oil,
scum, and algae that have made that glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.
That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy
right over it and still get the nut back on.
We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more
annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up
just fine and do not look obviously compromised.
If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see
the first C&C 35 trawler cruising around!
*/Joe Della Barba/*
Coquina
*From:* steven.hickel--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* steven.hic...@gmail.com
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel
bolt material?
Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely
helpful replies.
Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on
top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the
forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the
lost height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more
resin, rather than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was
assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.
Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very
eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of
(am assuming) stainless steel that should be used?
As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't
notice the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until
after tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly
filling the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day.
There seemed to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of
cloth in the lower area above the joint, though I don't know what's
original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in
the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly
leaking out from water in the bilge.
As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to
raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath?
Were you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it
without grinding out that big block of resin between it and the mast
step?
The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it
ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from
Glen Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get
input from someone familiar with all of this.
Thank you so much for the help!
